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Thread: Stiks sticking!

  1. #11
    try to use 1/16th rod and about 60 or 70 amps. Turn up the arc force a little so it doesnt stick so much.

  2. #12
    i watched a man last week run 5/32 6011 at 125 amps on 16 guage sheet steel.... he placed several tacks at regualr intervals down the joint, then came back over the seam very quickly..... it was wicked cool
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  3. #13
    Freddy put up a video showing him stick weldin some 16 gauge. 18 gauge to me would be more of a challenge BUT, if I were to do it I would crank the amperage up a little and do short "tack" bursts rather than trying to run a bead. That way it gives the metal time to cool and collect itself before the next blast and doesn't burn through as bad. It will be ugly as hell though but if you are going to run a grinder over it nobody but you will ever know the weld had gorilla tits unless you tell em. Take it from me, your grinder can be your closest friend and ally!

    P.S. I would use a 6013 rod as well. It burns smoother and is less likely to shoot a hole through your material than 6011, 6010, or 7018.
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  4. #14
    in my opinion, the 6010 has a faster freeze puddle... when doing very light gauge, i choose the 6010 first... i use 6013 for build up that has to be machined... refer to my gallery of a circle that was welded on only half... it is the rotator of the boom of a repo truck.... they let the pins and bushings go for too long and it wore out the surface. i built it up using 1/8 6013, then machined it smooth and even with a blanchard grinder
    Torchmate 5 x 10 custom built CNC table
    6 (each) Thermadyne 252i mig/ stick/ tig
    Thermal Dynamics a-60 automated cutter
    Thermal cutmaster 52 handheld cutter
    '07 pro300 miller
    '08 275 trailblazer miller
    '99 250 trailblazer
    12vs extreme suitcase feeder
    2 (each) xr-a 50 foot push-pull feeders (for aluminum mig)
    800 ton break
    400 ton shear
    MM350p
    xmt 304
    (do i REALLY need to keep going?)

    nothing fancy, just a few hot glue guns for metal

    www.sicfabrications.com

  5. #15
    you can do it just practice. drag the tip down the joint like a match and let it "warm up" for a spit second before you stop where you want to start. use small electrodes.
    watch my youtube channel http://www.youtube.com/freddytk421
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  6. #16
    When i used to work for industrial oven manufacturer we would stick weld 16 and 18 guage steel sheet together with T joints and butt welds with 6011 with the amperage set at like 70 - 90 amps 1/8 electrodes running stringer beads on the Butt joints with tacks every 6 inches or so running inch or so long beads alternating all over the sheet to control warpage

    Practice practice practice you will get it
    Last edited by WookieWelding; 01-24-2011 at 09:23 PM.
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  7. #17
    Senior Member tigqk's Avatar
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    Eastwood has for years sold an adapter for stick welding that used 5/64th rods but don't remember the type.You would connect the unit up to your leads for SMAW and adjust current at the bottom of the unit with a screw.I think they did it by using ac and using a diode in the circuit to cut the flow in half so you would only be getting one cycle and maybe part of another.
    It goes back to rules I learned in school many years ago, that you would not want to run SMAW on such a small thickness because the heat input would create tremendous warpage, and pretty much it is not done because of the fact this is engraned in your psycy when educated not to work with these metals.Also is like welding aluminum with SMAW, can be done but you don't see it.
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  8. #18
    torq im in the no $ catigory... i have to repair my car and may get stuck renting a mig for the day...

    I reeeealy dont want to but will have to see how my test pieces come out. if i can get oxy or stick to work for the car i will be happy
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