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Thread: J33pMan's Adventures in Welding

  1. #11
    Senior Member JustinWC's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by blueriver View Post
    Nice work ... Its funny the uses for filing cabinets. I have two of them in my roll around bench!!
    That's absolutely correct. I just obtained one to house my cnc package and computer tower to run my CNC table.
    Best regards,

    Justin

    Thermal Arc 186 TIG/Stick
    Lincoln SP-180T with spool gun
    Lincoln Electric Powermig 256
    Longevity Forcecut 42i
    Scotchman 275LT Cold saw
    Milwaukee Portaband
    HF 4x6 bandsaw

    JET HVBS-710SG 7x10-1/2 inch Geared Head Mitering Horizontal Vertical Bandsaw
    Evolution Rage 3 Dry saw
    (OLD) Rockwell Delta 16 Speed drill press
    29 Gal. air compressor with water trap and desiccant dryer

  2. #12
    Got my welding table on its feet tonight. So I thought I would share. Still need to paint it (not the top of course) but couldn't wait to post it.

    These are all scrap metal from the local yard.
    All 3 projects so far. Welding cart, clamping square, and welding table.


    Longevity MW 140
    Rage 3 Evoluton Dry saw
    Table Saw
    Radial Arm Saw
    4" grinder
    various hand and power tools

  3. #13
    Ok, I am pretty sure I "need" to win the latest contest because I "need" a Longevity Plasma cutter. Feel free to translate "need" to "really really want" because they are cool and it would look pretty sitting next to my Migweld 140.
    Longevity MW 140
    Rage 3 Evoluton Dry saw
    Table Saw
    Radial Arm Saw
    4" grinder
    various hand and power tools

  4. #14
    Senior Member scooba's Avatar
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    With that translation i think we all "need"to win the contest
    Millermatic 212
    Lincoln 110 flux core

  5. #15
    Senior Member JustinWC's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by J33PMan View Post
    Ok, I am pretty sure I "need" to win the latest contest because I "need" a Longevity Plasma cutter. Feel free to translate "need" to "really really want" because they are cool and it would look pretty sitting next to my Migweld 140.
    Don't we all... I need an 80 amp plasma for my new cnc table.
    Best regards,

    Justin

    Thermal Arc 186 TIG/Stick
    Lincoln SP-180T with spool gun
    Lincoln Electric Powermig 256
    Longevity Forcecut 42i
    Scotchman 275LT Cold saw
    Milwaukee Portaband
    HF 4x6 bandsaw

    JET HVBS-710SG 7x10-1/2 inch Geared Head Mitering Horizontal Vertical Bandsaw
    Evolution Rage 3 Dry saw
    (OLD) Rockwell Delta 16 Speed drill press
    29 Gal. air compressor with water trap and desiccant dryer

  6. #16
    Starting on my swing out tire carrier for my Jeep.



    Feeling better about the welds

    Longevity MW 140
    Rage 3 Evoluton Dry saw
    Table Saw
    Radial Arm Saw
    4" grinder
    various hand and power tools

  7. #17
    Senior Member JustinWC's Avatar
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    I was looking at the last weld. Nice Job! Here is a tip to make it a little better. I had to learn it the hard way.

    It looks a little too flat. I do those types of welds all the time. One thing you might want to do is make sure you tie in the horizontal tube's rounded corner a bit more. The rounded part takes a bit longer to melt (since it is more metal mass) than the vertical tube. I "aim" most of the heat into the rounded corner and it bleeds over to the cut tube easily without burning through. If you were to aim the wire at the middle of the two pieces at the correct heat setting you would likely burn through or have to move faster than would allow a good penetrating weld to occur. Aim more for the rounded part of the horizontal tube and slow down a bit and you will produce a better weld. I have marked up your weld with lines. Aim for the green line not the red one.
    I personally put a small angle (maybe 10 degrees) in my mig gun to aim into the rounded corner. I never worry about overlapping the other tube. It ALWAYS fuses. And I never burn through. I can even run hotter and never burn through because that rounded corner sucks up all the heat.
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    Last edited by JustinWC; 05-11-2015 at 08:33 AM.
    Best regards,

    Justin

    Thermal Arc 186 TIG/Stick
    Lincoln SP-180T with spool gun
    Lincoln Electric Powermig 256
    Longevity Forcecut 42i
    Scotchman 275LT Cold saw
    Milwaukee Portaband
    HF 4x6 bandsaw

    JET HVBS-710SG 7x10-1/2 inch Geared Head Mitering Horizontal Vertical Bandsaw
    Evolution Rage 3 Dry saw
    (OLD) Rockwell Delta 16 Speed drill press
    29 Gal. air compressor with water trap and desiccant dryer

  8. #18
    Right on, thank you for the advice. I will work on that. I must admit to having to fill a bit more gap than I intended to fill. The fitment was not as tight as I would have liked. If I were to lay a second pass, would I still focus on the green line?

    Thanks again.
    Longevity MW 140
    Rage 3 Evoluton Dry saw
    Table Saw
    Radial Arm Saw
    4" grinder
    various hand and power tools

  9. #19
    Senior Member JustinWC's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by J33PMan View Post
    Right on, thank you for the advice. I will work on that. I must admit to having to fill a bit more gap than I intended to fill. The fitment was not as tight as I would have liked. If I were to lay a second pass, would I still focus on the green line?

    Thanks again.
    For a second pass I just hit the middle of the joint (Red line).
    I admit I have less than ideal fit ups too sometimes. But anytime you are welding tube in that orientation the rounded corner automatically makes for a bigger gap even on a good fit.
    For poor fits, simply aim for the green line as you normally would but use a spot time method. Think "overlapping tack welds". If the gap is big reduce the angle on your gun a bit closer to 90 degrees. Each tack should be about one full Mississippi count or slightly longer depending on thickness. (I do a lot of 14 ga and use a slightly short count). So to do that, I tack each corner, then alternating corners, overlap tack welds by about 1/3 until you reach the middle. (BTW there is a reason to start at the corners so do it exactly as described) When you get near the middle you have to let the area cool a few seconds before the next tack. And it usually produces a weld that looks just like the one you made. I let it cool for a couple minutes then place a nice bead over it, down the middle of the joint.

    Also the method I described works well to repair where you have burned through and made a nice key hole. I never turn down my welder below the specified setting for the metal thickness I am welding. That is simply asking for poor fusion.

    I hope that helps.
    Last edited by JustinWC; 05-11-2015 at 11:34 AM.
    Best regards,

    Justin

    Thermal Arc 186 TIG/Stick
    Lincoln SP-180T with spool gun
    Lincoln Electric Powermig 256
    Longevity Forcecut 42i
    Scotchman 275LT Cold saw
    Milwaukee Portaband
    HF 4x6 bandsaw

    JET HVBS-710SG 7x10-1/2 inch Geared Head Mitering Horizontal Vertical Bandsaw
    Evolution Rage 3 Dry saw
    (OLD) Rockwell Delta 16 Speed drill press
    29 Gal. air compressor with water trap and desiccant dryer

  10. #20
    Senior Member JustinWC's Avatar
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    Here is how I would do my second pass over the weld you have there. You want to tie in the edge of the first weld with the full of the rounded corner.
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    Best regards,

    Justin

    Thermal Arc 186 TIG/Stick
    Lincoln SP-180T with spool gun
    Lincoln Electric Powermig 256
    Longevity Forcecut 42i
    Scotchman 275LT Cold saw
    Milwaukee Portaband
    HF 4x6 bandsaw

    JET HVBS-710SG 7x10-1/2 inch Geared Head Mitering Horizontal Vertical Bandsaw
    Evolution Rage 3 Dry saw
    (OLD) Rockwell Delta 16 Speed drill press
    29 Gal. air compressor with water trap and desiccant dryer

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