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Thread: 120/208 dryer circuit for the 160sx

  1. #21
    Quote Originally Posted by bames View Post
    Exidous,
    Since the run is in conduit, have a ground wire installed. It shouldn't take an electrician more than a couple of hours to complete. It probably makes sense to bring someone in to look at this and provide a quote.

    undercut,
    I agree that guessing about electricity can lead to major problems, or worse. I was only trying to answer his question and make sure he didn't do some "tricks" i have seen mentioned elsewhere on the internet. (Neutral wire as ground, or other unacceptable means of providing a ground)
    Didn't mean to say you were doing anything wrong. You were just trying to help. I just didn't want to hear on the news someone got a bad shock! Looks like everything is under control.
    Is it OK to want to break something just so that you can weld it back together?

  2. #22
    undercut
    I agree with you completely on this, I was beginning to regret helping out when I read some of the replies. But it sounds like he is in agreement to have a proper grounding conductor installed, so I now feel better about it. Electrical work is an area where a little bit of knowledge can be dangerous. Unless you know exactly what needs to be done, and why, you shouldn't attempt to do it.
    Longevity 256pi
    Lincoln 3200DX mig
    Smithy 1220 (mill/lathe/drillpress)
    Homemade CNC plasma table (36" x 48" working dimensions)
    Blast cabinet
    Powder coating setup
    5 Hp compressor

  3. #23
    LOL. I've learned to be extra paranoid. With me, a little bit of knowledge is dangerous, dangerous, dangerous!
    Is it OK to want to break something just so that you can weld it back together?

  4. #24
    So I got to thinking.....Right now I'm only welding .065" stainless tubing and only need about 1450watts. I gave the 120/15 plug a try and it worked great.

  5. #25
    Exidous
    Glad to hear that 120V is adequate for your current needs. You will be limited to about 80-90 Amps max in Tig mode. The actual max amperage will be dictated by your incoming voltage, breaker size, and the efficiency of the machine. Actual voltage at plug x breaker rating x machine efficiency / welding voltage = max welding amps. 120x15x0.8/16 = 90 It probably makes sense to back this down a bit for actual usage, as you don't want to be tripping your circuit breaker, or creating a large voltage drop, when you strike an arc.
    Longevity 256pi
    Lincoln 3200DX mig
    Smithy 1220 (mill/lathe/drillpress)
    Homemade CNC plasma table (36" x 48" working dimensions)
    Blast cabinet
    Powder coating setup
    5 Hp compressor

  6. #26
    Absolutely. I am only needing about 65 Amps at the moment so I have a bit of head room.

  7. #27
    Quote Originally Posted by Exidous View Post
    Absolutely. I am only needing about 65 Amps at the moment so I have a bit of head room.
    Running 110v is pretty convenient. I'm getting pretty good at running an extension from my dryer plug out to the welder but if you can get away with 110v that's pretty sweet.
    Is it OK to want to break something just so that you can weld it back together?

  8. #28
    I'll be moving in August and I think the 110 will hold me until I move. Once I get back to the mainland I'll get a 208/240 wired up properly so I can use the TIG to its full potential.

  9. #29
    I'm with you. I'll probably switch to 220v this welding season. 110v was convenient to learn with and muck around but 220v is where it's at.
    Is it OK to want to break something just so that you can weld it back together?

  10. #30
    Undercut, do they make a cord that runs from a dryer plug connection to the type of end we need for the 200 sx? If so where did you get it. Or did you make yours? I was going to splice one together, but the dude at Lowes said it wouldn't work. I'm curious why not.
    If there's a hole, my rod can fill it!
    Used: Miller Maxstar, Dynasty, Syncrowave, and Longevity 200sx
    Own: Longevity 200sx, Dewalt 4 1/2" grinder

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