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Thread: 4130 Chrome Moly Wall Thickness

  1. #11
    Senior Member brucer's Avatar
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    I would drop the carb and nitrous, build your new motor as a boost motor, go to fuel injection and single blower.

    all of the king of the hill races i'm seeing in my area the faster guys are going boost and with high rear gear ratios.

    I think you can drop more weight.. price a carbon fiber hood, fenders and doors, hatch also, you'll be surprised also note the weight.
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  2. #12
    Senior Member Nick's Avatar
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    I side with DOM as well. Unless you've been working with chromo for years, and know what you're doing - weight savings don't trump survivability. Recent example - a hillclimb Caterham that cartwheeled off track and down a small ravine. The DOM cage gave an inch or two where it was supposed to, the fragile bits broke off as planned, and the 50+yr old driver walked away.

    More over, given strength vs weight for the sizes you'd be using (And you would be saving weight by going thinner on chromo), we're not talking a massive weight gap between materials. In fact, it's straightforward to do the math with it. Take your sizes, and there are readily found lb / ft values out there. If you've got a rough number of feet you'll be using, problem solved. ^_^

    I'm a boost guy myself. If you're already spending the money to do your motor right, it might be worth looking in to. Depends on the level of tunability you require, and your ability to understand FI, but most systems allow progressive boost control, antilag launch control (Nearly full boost out of the hole - not that you'd want / need it for a 800+rwhp car on the street... You can set the car up to progressively gain power based on speed / traction / gear. I spent some time talking to someone with a 1100hp Toyota recently that's no longer afraid to touch the gas pedal after sorting out such a setup. (And this isn't a tubbed fox body with actual traction... ) He's still adding power back in at the 140mph mark, to give you an idea.

    As to weight savings... If it's a street car, I leave it be - outside of looking into panels / battery relocation, etc. I'm not big on suffering inside a pointy, overheating interior if it's something I occasionally drive to work. I also tend to not get as many dirty looks from the state trooper when I'm not sitting in a bare steel interior car glued into a race bucket by a 5pt harness and giant tach lazily screwed into the dash.

    There are plenty of fiberglass options out there, same with battery relocation, and dropping fuel cell size to save overall weight. Just a matter of what you're willing to compromise on in that department. CF may not be worth the price, depending on whether or not it's produced properly. Wet layup cf weighs nearly the same as fg in many cases.

    I don't have a dedicated track car, but I can lay claim to experiencing the inability to steer when the urge to show off caught the better of me.

    Either way, tons of pictures will be required. I also agree on grabbing the rule book from the series you'll be running, as well as buying one of the officials a few rounds while you go over your plans with him. Helps to have them lay eyes on it if they're local, as well. A steak and a few beers might save you a few weeks of cutting and welding.
    Full hand tool assortment, collecting sheet metal hammers/dollies, more time than money.

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