FreeWeldingForum.com 
Welding Forum Community presented by LONGEVITY
877 - Long - Inc | 877.566.4462
Page 2 of 5 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 ... LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 43

Thread: Does 7018 really require special storage?

  1. #11
    I just hate them. I am just about to post a thread about todays welding, and you will see my reason.
    Stickweld 250
    cocona O/A torch
    smith AW1
    CH 3hp compressor
    Lincoln tombstone

    Next tool: arcmate 160d

  2. #12
    I'm obviously reading these in the wrong order. Sorry about your bad day. Just checking the prices of 7014 and 7018 rods in my area. I'm leaning towards getting some 7018s.
    Is it OK to want to break something just so that you can weld it back together?

  3. #13
    For me, I would never buy 7014. They are a lot weaker then 7018, and I cant see them being easier to run. If you want an example why, go to tractorbynet, and search shieldarc break test. The rest of my day was pretty good, I hope tomorrow will go better with the arc blow.
    Stickweld 250
    cocona O/A torch
    smith AW1
    CH 3hp compressor
    Lincoln tombstone

    Next tool: arcmate 160d

  4. #14
    I don't like 7014. The rod I use most is Fleetweld 5P 6010. I weld mostly on square tbg., purlin and pipe. I use alot of 3/32 7018 on the square tbg. when I build ornamental fence for the clean up, no dingle-berries.
    Steve
    Miller Dialarc 250
    Lincoln Ranger250
    Longevity TigWeld 200DX

  5. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by deereman75 View Post
    For me, I would never buy 7014. They are a lot weaker then 7018, and I cant see them being easier to run. If you want an example why, go to tractorbynet, and search shieldarc break test. The rest of my day was pretty good, I hope tomorrow will go better with the arc blow.
    Read that submission on tractorbynet. Wow, that's crazy. So little penetration. Good luck tomorrow.

    ---------- Post added at 07:57 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:56 PM ----------

    Quote Originally Posted by poodle View Post
    I don't like 7014. The rod I use most is Fleetweld 5P 6010. I weld mostly on square tbg., purlin and pipe. I use alot of 3/32 7018 on the square tbg. when I build ornamental fence for the clean up, no dingle-berries.
    Thanks for your reply, poodle.
    Is it OK to want to break something just so that you can weld it back together?

  6. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by deereman75 View Post
    They are a lot weaker then 7018
    that is a load of crap... the first 2 numbers in rod configuration is the "tensile strength as welded" so, you are using both 70xx rods, both are 70 ksi tensile strength as welded... both have iron powder in the coatings, both are all position rods... both are contact rods and both are high strength rods.... the difference between them is the 7018 is low hydrogen, the 7014 is not....

    also, as to the junk ive seen throughout this post, 7018 being low hydrogen rods, what does burned hydrogen make? water. what does water do to the puddle of molten steel? porosity. do we want porosity in our welds? no.

    7018 rods are to be kept rods are to be kept in a rod oven after breaking the seal on the can, after theyve sit out for a bit (the time frame changes to engineers specs per job, but usually only allowed to have an hours worth of rods out at a time, however, they are supposed to be kept in a sealable container until immediate use) then they have to go into a reclaim oven then brought back to a stage oven

    now then, you ask why? this is only for those jobs that are coded and the welds are critical, like on bridges and hydro-dams and nuclear power plants and pipeline (you get the drift, yeah?) 7018 is a hard re-strike where as the 7014 is an easy re-strike, the 7014 is NOT a low hydrogen rod and therefore is not allowed to be used as a structural or high pressure rod due to the inevitable hydrogen embrittlement.


    hope ive cleared some stuff up
    Torchmate 5 x 10 custom built CNC table
    6 (each) Thermadyne 252i mig/ stick/ tig
    Thermal Dynamics a-60 automated cutter
    Thermal cutmaster 52 handheld cutter
    '07 pro300 miller
    '08 275 trailblazer miller
    '99 250 trailblazer
    12vs extreme suitcase feeder
    2 (each) xr-a 50 foot push-pull feeders (for aluminum mig)
    800 ton break
    400 ton shear
    MM350p
    xmt 304
    (do i REALLY need to keep going?)

    nothing fancy, just a few hot glue guns for metal

    www.sicfabrications.com

  7. #17
    Hey Stan glad to see you pop in. I knew that you could shed some light on this subject. Like you said I am not doing critical welds so I just keep mine in my welding box.
    Steve
    Miller Dialarc 250
    Lincoln Ranger250
    Longevity TigWeld 200DX

  8. #18
    I have to argue with you on this. A damp 7018 is still stronger then a 7014. These tests were done by a retired bridge welder, with atleast 40-50 years welding.
    7018 Break test. - TractorByNet.com
    7014 Break test. - TractorByNet.com
    And just to compare, here are the mig and tig tests.
    Tig break test. - TractorByNet.com
    Mig break test. - TractorByNet.com
    Stickweld 250
    cocona O/A torch
    smith AW1
    CH 3hp compressor
    Lincoln tombstone

    Next tool: arcmate 160d

  9. #19
    Quote Originally Posted by SICFabrications View Post
    that is a load of crap... the first 2 numbers in rod configuration is the "tensile strength as welded" so, you are using both 70xx rods, both are 70 ksi tensile strength as welded... both have iron powder in the coatings, both are all position rods... both are contact rods and both are high strength rods.... the difference between them is the 7018 is low hydrogen, the 7014 is not.... also, as to the junk ive seen throughout this post, 7018 being low hydrogen rods, what does burned hydrogen make? water. what does water do to the puddle of molten steel? porosity. do we want porosity in our welds? no. 7018 rods are to be kept rods are to be kept in a rod oven after breaking the seal on the can, after theyve sit out for a bit (the time frame changes to engineers specs per job, but usually only allowed to have an hours worth of rods out at a time, however, they are supposed to be kept in a sealable container until immediate use) then they have to go into a reclaim oven then brought back to a stage oven now then, you ask why? this is only for those jobs that are coded and the welds are critical, like on bridges and hydro-dams and nuclear power plants and pipeline (you get the drift, yeah?) 7018 is a hard re-strike where as the 7014 is an easy re-strike, the 7014 is NOT a low hydrogen rod and therefore is not allowed to be used as a structural or high pressure rod due to the inevitable hydrogen embrittlement. hope ive cleared some stuff up
    Thanks for the info, SICFabrications. Assuming I store 7018 rods properly, do you think I'll get more mileage from stocking 7018s or 7014s? I really would rather buy one and not have to stock both. It appears that most welders would rather use 7018s.
    Is it OK to want to break something just so that you can weld it back together?

  10. #20
    Thanks Stan, I knew you would clear this up.
    Units owned Longevity PROmts 200

    Force Cut LP80 plasma cutter
    Longevity auto dark welding helmet

    Atlas 10x36" lathe
    Craftsman 5HP 30 Gal compressor
    Home made CNC router/plasma/hot wire foam cutting, 3D printing table powered by Longevity Force Cut LP80
    Home built aluminum foundry, HF 4x6 bandsaw

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •