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Thread: Does 7018 really require special storage?

  1. #1

    Does 7018 really require special storage?

    I've been reading in some forums that 7018 doesn't really require special storage or drying before usage. What are your real-world experiences with storing and using 7018 rods?
    Is it OK to want to break something just so that you can weld it back together?

  2. #2
    We kept ours in a old refrigerator with a light bulb in it. Nowadays I just have mine in my welding box. I don't do inspected, high grade welds.
    Steve
    Miller Dialarc 250
    Lincoln Ranger250
    Longevity TigWeld 200DX

  3. #3
    A good trick I learned if you dont have a rod oven, is to touch the rod to the metal, and let current pass through it for about 10 secs. This will heat it up, and it will run 3x better
    Stickweld 250
    cocona O/A torch
    smith AW1
    CH 3hp compressor
    Lincoln tombstone

    Next tool: arcmate 160d

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by deereman75 View Post
    A good trick I learned if you dont have a rod oven, is to touch the rod to the metal, and let current pass through it for about 10 secs. This will heat it up, and it will run 3x better
    I'm looking at inverter stick welders. I'm curious as to what the inverter circuitry would do in this case. I'm assuming it would limit the amount of current to whatever the box is set at. Any harm in doing this? I'm thinking about how I would store 7018 relatively long term (best deals in my area are for 5lb boxes but I don't know how quickly I would go through them).
    Is it OK to want to break something just so that you can weld it back together?

  5. #5
    I do it all the time with my stickweld 250. I glanced down at the display, and it read 170 amps, I had it set at 125. Not sure if it was right, or it was playing tricks on its self. I buy 7018 in 10# boxes, and just leave it laying open in my kind of damp shop. If I stick them first, they run just fine, if I dont, they run like crap.
    Stickweld 250
    cocona O/A torch
    smith AW1
    CH 3hp compressor
    Lincoln tombstone

    Next tool: arcmate 160d

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by deereman75 View Post
    I do it all the time with my stickweld 250. I glanced down at the display, and it read 170 amps, I had it set at 125. Not sure if it was right, or it was playing tricks on its self. I buy 7018 in 10# boxes, and just leave it laying open in my kind of damp shop. If I stick them first, they run just fine, if I dont, they run like crap.
    Hmmm, good to know. Any idea on the shelf life (open box) of various rods?
    Is it OK to want to break something just so that you can weld it back together?

  7. #7
    I am not sure, but I recall hearing that a rod is fine as long as the metal under the flux isnt rusty. Also, if you have 6010 or 6011 that wont run well, dip a handfull of them in water for a few seconds, and lay them out on the bench to dry. They will run a lot better, they dont work if their too dry.
    Stickweld 250
    cocona O/A torch
    smith AW1
    CH 3hp compressor
    Lincoln tombstone

    Next tool: arcmate 160d

  8. #8
    Sorry to keep asking all of these newbie questions but ... I know each rod has their own characteristics but I'm not really looking to buy a whole inventory of different rods. I plan on getting some 6011 and I'm wrestling with either buying 7014 or 7018 but not keen on buying both. Any suggestions?
    Is it OK to want to break something just so that you can weld it back together?

  9. #9
    I have never used 7014, but I hear they run a lot like 6013. I hate 6013. 1/8 7018 is my fav rod, I will post some pictures of some t-welds I did with them tonight, check my intro thread.
    Stickweld 250
    cocona O/A torch
    smith AW1
    CH 3hp compressor
    Lincoln tombstone

    Next tool: arcmate 160d

  10. #10
    Have never used 6013 before. What's so bad about them?
    Is it OK to want to break something just so that you can weld it back together?

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