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Starting another CNC table



acourtjester
12-07-2012, 03:19 PM
HI All
I have started on a new CNC table. This thread will show all info about the construction of this table. The table will be a 4' X 4' cutting area witha parking zone for the "Y" carriage so it will be completely out of the way for loading material for cutting. I will supply the DXF files for the parts use in the construction. Attached is a video showing the "X" rail slider assemblies I developed.
CNC bearing slider - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=leWjHZe_rcc&feature=youtu.be)

have fun
Tom:joker

undercut
12-07-2012, 03:56 PM
Very nice! So this will be in addition to your current setup or as a replacement? I can never get enough of tools being used to make parts for better tools.

Gadget
12-07-2012, 04:24 PM
Looks like a great design Tom. This should be a fun thread to watch.

shocwav3
12-07-2012, 05:20 PM
This sucker is going to be beefy. What type of motors are you using to drive the axis'? Carriage design looks like it will keep her nice and straight.

Anthony

acourtjester
12-07-2012, 09:02 PM
It will have a 1/8" X 2" square tube mounted on a 1/4" X 2" X 3" angle for the X rails driven by a 640 OZ stepper. the Y rail is a 1/8" X 2" X 4" rectangle tube with a 570 stepper.
The base of the table is 1/4" X 2" X 2" angle. with square tube legs.
In addition to the other table I have.

acourtjester
12-09-2012, 10:52 AM
I welded up the basic base for the table no legs yet it is 6’ X 5’. It will end up over 5’ due to the chain drive on both the outsides. I finished welding the sliders picture shows one X and the Y slider.

shocwav3
12-11-2012, 01:51 PM
Coming together quick

acourtjester
12-12-2012, 03:14 PM
HI Guys
Progress report on the new table, I welded the Y rail to the side supports. Then cut out attaching brackets for the Y rail to bolt onto the X sliders. I installed the X drive bearings on the Y rail and installed the X drive connecting shaft with sprockets for a test fit. I turned some bushing for the pillow block bearings so I could use a 5/16” bolt instead of a ½” bolt to hold the bearings on the Y rail. Installed a short section of chain to show how the chain loops to the X drive connecting shaft the chain will run parallel to the X rail. I will machine the Z bearing slider housings in the morning.

acourtjester
12-18-2012, 08:41 PM
Today I setup the slider for the Y axis I machined some shims to use when settiong up the bearings.
For the top I used a .088" shim and the sides are a .064" this is for the spacing of the clearence of the slider assembly to the rail.

Gadget
12-19-2012, 10:47 AM
That's a real sweet setup Tom, easily adjustable and very accurate, it shows a lot of thought and planning.

acourtjester
12-19-2012, 03:30 PM
thank you sir, need to keep the mind working it's holds off OLDS-Himmers. And it sure is fun building things.

acourtjester
12-29-2012, 12:11 PM
Worked on the Y drive assembly, cut and machined a “C” shaped bracket to hold the gear housing. I made brackets from 1” angle to weld on the Y slider so the gear assembly can be removed if needed. Welded tabs on the back of the gear rack and pop riveted the rack on the Y tube this is one of the reasons I used a 2” X 4” tube there is space between the bearings. When I make the motor mounting brackets I can then order the timing belts and pulleys.

Gadget
12-29-2012, 04:35 PM
That's going to be a sweet machine. What are you doing for backlash on the rack and pinion?

acourtjester
12-30-2012, 11:52 AM
The bearing asembly for the pinion gear is adjustable to remove any slop in the rack & pinion.

gilly
12-30-2012, 05:21 PM
It definitely looks heavy duty and well made.

acourtjester
01-03-2013, 02:08 PM
Cut out the motor mounting brackets for the X & Y motors. Getting better at using the first plasma table parts are coming out nicer. Getting the pierce and cutting height dialed in.

Gadget
01-03-2013, 03:41 PM
Nice looking cutouts. Refresh my memory, are you using a water table?

acourtjester
01-03-2013, 08:58 PM
Yes sir on the water table, its about 4.5" deep with the grill about 3.5" off the bottom I have about 2.5" water in it.
really helps with the sparks and dust, I put borax soap in it for the rust and it works great same water for about 4 weeks now when I fish out the cutouts the old dust is not rusted.

acourtjester
01-12-2013, 03:36 PM
I added legs and braces to my table frame with height adjusters. The adjusters can be swapped end to end to get them out of the way if needed.

Gadget
01-12-2013, 03:40 PM
Nice idea to make them reversible. I'm going to use spring loaded rods on mine and use toggle clamps to push them down and lock them. It's still in the thinking stage though right now.

acourtjester
01-12-2013, 03:40 PM
My daughter made Chief in the Navy so I made her this desk name plate, its 3” X 10” ¼” plate used a stencil font for the letter.

acourtjester
01-12-2013, 03:58 PM
With all metal being 1/4" thick and a water table to boot I used 5/8" coupling nuts and bolts for the heigth adjusters. I'm to cheap to use toggle clamps.

KHK
01-12-2013, 05:37 PM
The CNC table looks Great!!! Thanks for sharing.

undercut
01-13-2013, 01:36 AM
My daughter made Chief in the Navy so I made her this desk name plate, its 3” X 10” ¼” plate used a stencil font for the letter.

Congratulations to your daughter and that's a fantastic gift to commemorate the occasion. Cheers.

acourtjester
01-19-2013, 01:29 PM
finished the name plate with powder coating Navy Blue. while I had the oven and powder gun out i did the 3 motor mounts and two wrenches I cut for the table. One is for the leveling feet and the other is for the bearing adjusters on the axis sliders. I ordered the timing pulleys and belts for the Y & Z drive I will mount the motor brackets when I get the parts in.

Gadget
01-19-2013, 02:56 PM
Nice job on the powder coating. That's something I'd like to be able to do someday.

acourtjester
01-19-2013, 05:33 PM
Gadget jsut let me know if you want any info it is not that hard to get into.
I use burners from a stove top inside a double 50 Gal drum that has insulation around it (regular 4" home depot fiberglass stuff)

Gadget
01-19-2013, 05:51 PM
Thanks Tom. It's more of an issue with unjustified expense. I just haven't had a need that would make it worthwhile. (yet)

acourtjester
01-22-2013, 03:46 PM
X drive assembly configured today to fit sprockets and chain length. Welded the X motor drive bracket on the end of the Y axis tube and mounted the motor.
I machined the large sprocket to slide over the bearing extension and trimmed it for the chain on the smaller sprocket to clear.

Gadget
01-22-2013, 04:26 PM
Nice work Tom. Are you going to support the underside of the chain to prevent vibration as it runs? I did that with my belt drive and it worked out very nicely.

brucer
01-22-2013, 10:49 PM
looking good tom... it will look real nice when you get some color on it..

undercut
01-22-2013, 11:59 PM
Nice work Tom. Are you going to support the underside of the chain to prevent vibration as it runs? I did that with my belt drive and it worked out very nicely.

That's a great idea. That's a pretty long length of chain that can bounce around in operation. Great job acourtjester!

urbnsr
01-23-2013, 03:40 AM
That's a great idea. That's a pretty long length of chain that can bounce around in operation. Great job acourtjester!

Looks nice. It's a great way to allow gantry alignment, too.
Paul

acourtjester
01-23-2013, 08:51 AM
I do have plans to support the chain if needed I did not have a problem with the first table and the same X drive setup. I did make sure I had that option when I planed out this table. Juwst waiting for the belts and pulleys for the Y & Z drive to mount the motors for them.

dwdw
01-23-2013, 03:28 PM
Acourtjester: Every project you do is Well Thought out Great!
You have a mind and attitude to strive for the best of all angles.
Well done and thanks for all the helpful advice along the way.
dwdw

brucer
01-23-2013, 10:25 PM
tom,

no auto tensioners?

acourtjester
01-24-2013, 09:21 AM
I use a system called "I tighty when it gets loosey" fewer parts!

brucer
01-24-2013, 08:16 PM
I use a system called "I tighty when it gets loosey" fewer parts!

yea, i'm just lazy ;)

acourtjester
01-24-2013, 08:47 PM
yea, i'm just lazy ;)

lazy hog wash I saw all the machining you did on that fine table of your's!!!

acourtjester
01-29-2013, 03:49 PM
Getting close to finishing the table built the floating head for the torch mount. This can be installed and removed with 4 bolts I also have a router head setup too. This was an 11” linear slide attached to a plate with added places for a switch, return spring, and lower stop. And a torch mount attached to the moving part of the slide. Images are annotated to show what each part is for.

Have fun
Tom
:joker

Gadget
01-29-2013, 04:10 PM
Nice work Tom. That torch looks mighty big, what kind is it?

acourtjester
01-29-2013, 08:33 PM
It is a Trafimet P 81 I got it with the 80I from Longevity I have 60 amp tips parts in it.

urbnsr
01-29-2013, 09:23 PM
It is a Trafimet P 81 I got it with the 80I from Longevity I have 60 amp tips parts in it.

Looks nice. Does this torch have the euro connector on it?

acourtjester
01-30-2013, 08:46 AM
Yes sir it does, there was a wiring problem I had to fix first but it works great.

urbnsr
01-30-2013, 09:55 AM
Thank you!

urbnsr
02-02-2013, 07:14 AM
Sorry - me again,
Does this torch take the same 80 amp consumables as the torch that came with the machine? Also - When I bought my 80i, I asked about 60 and 40 amp consumables thinking about thinner material and duty cycle and was told to run it at 80 amps and use 80 amp tips only. Does that sound right? I would feel better running at 60 amps or less unless cutting thicker material.

Paul

acourtjester
02-02-2013, 09:21 AM
Hi Paul
If you received a trafimet A 81 torch with your 80I there are 2 tip sizes for that torch.
The other torches I got with the 8oI were not trafimet.
PD0105-10 1.0mm which I think is for 60 amps
PD0105-12 1.2mm which I think is for 80 amps
This seems to be standard with other torch tips that I’ve seen.
Here is the web site for Trafimet with parts
ergocut-a81-torch (http://trafimetgroup.com/en/products-form/plasma/5/ergocut-a81-torch/f_ergocut_a81/ergocut-a81-torch.html#)

I also have seen the statement run a 60 amp torch at 60 amps (Jim colt from Hypertherm).
With the torches I have 1.0mm tip is the smallest tip I have and I cut 3/16” and ¼” steel running about 40 amps and it cuts very nice. I have not cut thinner steel then that.
I am not an expert but learn like most of us “if is works I keep doing it until told different”
Here is a image of the other torch I got with the 80I (is yours like this?) and it uses the same tips a my Panasonic P-80 torch also with 1.0 mm and 1.2mm tips.
Hope this helps.

urbnsr
02-02-2013, 01:31 PM
Thanks. Yes - Helps very much. Your torch in the image looks alot like the one I received except yours has a nice looking knuckle where the torch handle meets the hose/wires. My torch came with 1.5mm and 1.3mm tips. I didn't realize the different sizes were for different metal thickness or maybe I missed that in the manual. I am also wondering about the HF cut in that I think these use - Even though I use shielded wiring, I worry about interference, but looks like you are cutting without problems.

acourtjester
02-02-2013, 04:57 PM
The 80I cuts just fine with the pilot arc (if it has one) I looked inside and did not see any spark gap. I have had hick-ups but it shows as a limit switch trip but will not show in Mach 3 if I run with out the limits enabled no problems many on/off cycles and i just cut away. I'm going to try some filter on the switches on the new table.

Gadget
02-02-2013, 05:00 PM
Tom, check for a debounce function on the limit switches. I added that to mine and they never false trip now. I'm not that familiar with Mach but I'll bet there is a setting for that somewhere.
A quick search found this




Re: Where is debounce interval located can't find it anywhere? (http://www.machsupport.com/forum/index.php?PHPSESSID=20guejhqtc04opd83l1m0e3qh3&topic=21580.msg149963#msg149963)
« Reply #1 on: May 14, 2012, 11:54:20 PM »




Config>General Config - upper right corner.

acourtjester
02-02-2013, 05:16 PM
I received the belts and pulleys for the Y and Z drive and installed the motor mounting brackets all works fine. I also installed the limit switches for the X and Y axis drives. I set it up so I only have 1 switch to be both end limits and the home for each axis. This is done by putting the switch on the moving axis with a trigger on the rail.

Gadget
02-02-2013, 05:23 PM
Very nice, what kind of rapids do you expect to get? Is that a 1-2 ratio?

I used solid state limit/ home switches on mine. Just a blade on each end to trip the unit. They don't seem to be affected by interference as much as the mechanical switches. I think I paid about a buck apiece for the hall effect transistors for my switches.

acourtjester
02-02-2013, 05:25 PM
Yeah Gadget there is a debounce setting but when I set it up then the touch and go of the floating head switch was too long. What I did do is lower the debounce number and enabled only the Z home and the floating head worked great.
Mach3 has a diagnostic page that shows the input errors but there is never a switch set but the error message said limit tripped??

Gadget
02-02-2013, 05:28 PM
Is there any way to remove the debounce on the floating head only? I can pick and choose which switches have debounce on Linuxcnc.

acourtjester
02-02-2013, 05:31 PM
Yes sir about a 1 to 2 ratio I'm not really thinking about the rapids I'm looking more at the steps per inch number. More numbers the more accurate the movement of the axis.
Its nice that sheetcam allows the different speeds for rapids and cutting.

I don't think you can select different setting for each switch there may be I just don't know.

Gadget
02-02-2013, 05:33 PM
Yes, Sheetcam is a real nice program.

undercut
02-03-2013, 12:16 AM
Very nice, what kind of rapids do you expect to get? Is that a 1-2 ratio?

I used solid state limit/ home switches on mine. Just a blade on each end to trip the unit. They don't seem to be affected by interference as much as the mechanical switches. I think I paid about a buck apiece for the hall effect transistors for my switches.

Sorry for the interruption but where, if you don't mind, did you get the hall effect transistors, Gadget?

Really nice to see how both of you are building your projects. Great fun seeing these get built.

Gadget
02-03-2013, 06:15 AM
Sorry for the interruption but where, if you don't mind, did you get the hall effect transistors, Gadget?

Really nice to see how both of you are building your projects. Great fun seeing these get built.

You can get the hall effect transistor complete module (magnet, transistor, and case) which is NC here http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?mpart=OHB900&vendor=365
The bare transistor can be found here http://www.cutedigi.com/sensor/magneto/hall-effect-sensor-us1881eua.html#googlebase
There are a lot of sources for these, you probably could pick them up on Ebay as well.
Here's a link to a thread on another forum on their application http://www.cnczone.com/forums/open_source_cnc_machine_designs/101878-electronic_home_switches_made_easy-2.html

acourtjester
02-03-2013, 07:40 AM
Thanks Gadget I used the hall effect switches on my first table shown here but still had problems. I am not convinced its not a software glitch.
http://www.longevity-inc.com/forum/cnc-machines-submerged-arc-automated-systems-other-cutting-methods/3417-diy-plasma-router-table-7.html
I also bought proximity sensors to use but at this point I am using the micro switches. I run the other table without switches enabled and it works fine.
I did put rubber bump stops on the X and Y axis as a safeguard most times I do a test run before cuts to check out the operation.

Gadget
02-03-2013, 07:58 AM
I found that if you have too high a latency setting on the CNC control software it will do false trips. I set that down and the trips went away. Anyway, if it's working for you that's all that counts. I ran my old table without limits due to tripping and never had a problem.
Just a thought, Connect the ground pin on your BOB to the electrical ground circuit. That has reduced issues for a lot of people. Others have found better operation when grounding the negative side of the power supply filter capacitor too.

acourtjester
02-03-2013, 01:47 PM
Gadget I was thinking about a cap filter then I found this post which assures me that it will work. I will be putting it on hte new electronics package when I build the cabinet.
limit switch triggered (http://www.machsupport.com/forum/index.php?topic=15561.0)
may help others too.

Gadget
02-03-2013, 01:51 PM
I used .01uf tantalum capacitors and it didn't seem to help. Perhaps the ceramic ones work better. If I run into a problem I'll try the ceramics. So far the limits haven't triggered since I used the hall effect setup.

acourtjester
02-03-2013, 02:20 PM
It may be they are electrolytic and are polorized, the other guy said .1 UF could be the time constant was to short.

shocwav3
02-03-2013, 02:39 PM
Coming along nicely.

undercut
02-04-2013, 12:13 AM
You can get the hall effect transistor complete module (magnet, transistor, and case) which is NC here OHB900 TT Electronics/Optek Technology | 365-1002-ND | DigiKey (http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?mpart=OHB900&vendor=365)
The bare transistor can be found here Hall Effect Sensor US1881EUA (http://www.cutedigi.com/sensor/magneto/hall-effect-sensor-us1881eua.html#googlebase)
There are a lot of sources for these, you probably could pick them up on Ebay as well.
Here's a link to a thread on another forum on their application Electronic home switches made easy! - Page 2 - CNCzone.com-The Largest Machinist Community on the net! (http://www.cnczone.com/forums/open_source_cnc_machine_designs/101878-electronic_home_switches_made_easy-2.html)

Thanks for the supply links and the thread on their application!

acourtjester
03-05-2013, 04:15 PM
I am finally getting back to making progress on the table build. I have spent too much time making the box for the electronics. But I have the box finished and spent today putting in the electronics inside, I have the power supplies mounted and wired. Installed the drivers, in the morning I will put the CPU board in and start on the interconnecting wiring. :bounce

Gadget
03-05-2013, 05:04 PM
Looks like you put a lot of time planning that case Tom, It looks great.

undercut
03-06-2013, 12:25 AM
Looks like you put a lot of time planning that case Tom, It looks great.

I second that. Really nice case. Wow, quite a few power supplies you've got going in there.

Gadget
03-06-2013, 05:42 AM
It may be they are electrolytic and are polorized, the other guy said .1 UF could be the time constant was to short.
Actually I miss typed they were .1 tantalum. I haven't had any trouble since I switched to the hall effect switches bu if I do I'll try the other caps.

acourtjester
03-06-2013, 08:32 AM
Thanks Gadget I plan on putting the caps in this controller and will retro fit the other one too.

cmoses2
03-06-2013, 01:16 PM
I am finally getting back to making progress on the table build. I have spent too much time making the box for the electronics. But I have the box finished and spent today putting in the electronics inside, I have the power supplies mounted and wired. Installed the drivers, in the morning I will put the CPU board in and start on the interconnecting wiring. :bounce

Courtjester: Do you put a metal screen or filter on the box openings?
Also what drives/controller do you like?
cmoses2

acourtjester
03-06-2013, 03:52 PM
Here are some more pictures of progress I just have a few more connections to make and I’m done with the electronics Controller. Filters and fans added motor connectors can be seen on the back.
I buy from brenthub@comcast.net for my motors and drivers nice guy to deal with.
Here is the motor for the X axis
KL34H280-55-4A (1/2" Single Shaft) Specification Price: $89
640 oz In. Hybrid Motor
1.8° /200 Steps Per Rev.
4.5A Amps Current Per Phase ( Bipolar Parallel)
4-wire Bi-polar, NEMA 34 Frame

Y axis
NEMA 23 Stepper Motor: KL23H2100-50-4B (3/8” Dual shaft with a flat) 570 oz-in
Specification Price: $54.95
570 oz In. Hybrid Motor
1.8° /200 Steps Per Rev.
5 Amps Current Per Phase
4-wire Bi-polar, NEMA 23 Frame

Z axis
NEMA 23 Stepper Motor: KL23H2100-30-4BM (1/4” Dual shaft with a flat) 495 oz-in
Specification Price: $49.95
495 oz In. Hybrid Motor
1.8° /200 Steps Per Rev.
3 Amps Current Per Phase
4-wire Bi-polar, NEMA 23 Frame

Drivers 1---stepper driver PSD 5042-2p $63.00 ea
2---stepper drivers PSD 6056-2p $126.00

Like Tim Allen said POWER ARGA MORE POWER

acourtjester
03-14-2013, 09:38 AM
Here is my finished electronics box. The cover has the monitor mounted and the keyboard, mouse and USB dock can be seen on the inside surface. On the fan output end you can see the 3 jacks for the motor drive and torch trigger jack and Cat 6 jack for limit and E stop signals.
Now I can blow apart the table for finish painting and do final assembly and start using the table.

Tom
:joker

Gadget
03-14-2013, 05:17 PM
Nice and compact Tom, very well thought out. I like the monitor and keyboard setup, being able to close it from the shop dust is a big plus.

acourtjester
03-14-2013, 07:17 PM
Thank Gadget
I really enjoy working out in my shop building things like this. I probably sell the first one I built, complete ready to go to give me more room. The weather getting better I need to get back on my Sedan so I can finish it too.

Have fun
Tom

acourtjester
04-06-2013, 05:01 PM
HI
Table finished and tuned it ran floating torch head tests today
All that left is to hook up the ground for the table and connect the Plasma unit for cutting.

Have fun
Tom


http://youtu.be/-B8neSI7xP4

Gadget
04-06-2013, 05:25 PM
Pretty slick Tom. I should probably check into building one for my table. It would sure save some setup time and reduce the chances of a ruined cut. By the way, I embedded the video into your post.
Dan

acourtjester
04-06-2013, 07:10 PM
Gadget
Thanks for both

acourtjester
04-09-2013, 08:40 PM
Here are the first cuts made on my new table. Force cut 80I with a Trafimet P81 torch and 1mm tip at 80 PSI ¼” steel plate.
First cuts 2nd table completion - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CY_FW_vxjA0&list=UUrWyAGIpMmQfMwq0KTKpuRw&index=1)

urbnsr
04-09-2013, 09:30 PM
Very nice, Tom. Thanks. What was the feed rate on the 1/4"?

acourtjester
04-10-2013, 04:33 AM
I gave it a 35ipm in sheet cam I'm sure it could be higher.
The third image down is the parts layed on top of each other no dross removal before the pictures taken.

acourtjester
04-10-2013, 04:46 AM
Note of interest for some this picture is of the cable I used for the limit switches. I used a CAT 6 as it is slightly larger and has better shielding then CAT 5. I used a .01 Capacitor across each switch connected at the BOB board and the CAT 6 ground/shield was attached only at the back panel jack of the electronics box. CAT 6 connectors have a metal section that makes the ground connection for the plug and jack, CAT 5 don’t.

Gadget
04-10-2013, 05:32 AM
Nice looking cuts Tom. Feels good when things work as planned doesn't it.

acourtjester
04-10-2013, 07:38 AM
amen and it sure is fun too.

Gadget
04-10-2013, 08:44 AM
Tom, I just watched your video and have a possible suggestion. You can program Sheetcam to only do the touch off when the distance from one cut to another is over XXXmm (your setting). On smaller cuts closer together this could save a lot of time. Here's a link to the article referencing this.
Need Help! Z Floating Head Question(s) (http://www.cnczone.com/forums/general_waterjet_edm_machines/102133-z_floating_head_question_s.html)

I'm going to have to start working on my own floating head, it is much faster than me using a touch off plate every time to find zero.

Dan

acourtjester
04-10-2013, 07:32 PM
Thanks Gadget
I knew I need to fine tune my floating action that were good info.
I will check it out in sheet cam (great program)


have fun
Tom

acourtjester
04-15-2013, 07:31 PM
HI
Finished the table and I am ready to do some cutting.
Attachments show table and electronics package on a roll around cart.
I used the water table from the other table until I can construct another for this table.
Test cuts came out very well in the above video.
I am working up a construction plans package to sell with all the info about this build.
have fun
Tom:envy

Gadget
04-15-2013, 07:50 PM
Excellent build Tom, I'm sure the plans will be a big hit when they come out.

brucer
05-20-2013, 12:34 AM
HI
Finished the table and I am ready to do some cutting.
Attachments show table and electronics package on a roll around cart.
I used the water table from the other table until I can construct another for this table.
Test cuts came out very well in the above video.
I am working up a construction plans package to sell with all the info about this build.
have fun
Tom:envy


Nice build tom,

what thickness material did you use for your water pan?

brucer
05-20-2013, 12:46 AM
Tom,
I dont know which post you are using for the floating head, but there is a specific post for the floating head that works very well.. post is named mp1000-thc-zref... when you edit the switch offset or any variable for that matter, it will add a new post called mp1000-thc-zref (edited)..

Running like this in the cnc machine tool world is called a floating z home, where in your z ref home is always changing with the top of the plate as the machine sets its own z at a designated distance of travel.

After running a cnc mill for 20yrs its odd for me to run my machine like this as the reference locations are always at the axis limits and Z is all the way up on a cnc mill, not down at the workpiece.

acourtjester
05-20-2013, 07:23 AM
I used 18Ga for the pan on my table.
I understand whay you are saying about the mp1000-thc-ref I had no referance for my way of doing the floating head as I come from medical electronics world.
I wll do some reading on this thanks

Tom

brucer
05-20-2013, 08:29 AM
I used 16ga on mine and its not flat at all, I tried to weld in some 1 1/4" angle and didnt help..

acourtjester
05-20-2013, 09:04 AM
The way I made my water table is in separate parts. The water tank does not have the grill welded into it and the slates are removable too. The only welding on the tank was at each corner. The new one will be bigger and I will have a seam down the middle I will need to go slowly to keep the distortion down.

acourtjester
06-02-2013, 10:36 AM
I finished the water table for the new table it is big enough to put a 4' X 4' sheet in with no problem. attached are the 2 parts I made from a 4' X 10' sheet of 18 Ga. The only welding is the one joint and the 4 corners. I also changed the number of pins I used for the slats, now I just have 3 pins for each slat this make is very easy to remove slats. I set them up for 3-1/2"slat spacing but remove every other one when cutting from a bigger sheet. Another change is I placed 4 ceramic tiles (16" X 16" each) on the bottom to protect the painted metal bottom from the sparks that worked very well.

acourtjester
06-02-2013, 10:50 AM
After looking at the tips I have for my Trafimet P-81 torch it seems to be a drag type. It also collected splatter from the pierce action so I wanted to modify it and this is how I did it. I turned a aluminum plug for mounting in my lathe taped the center for a 3/8" bolt and turned the end to fit inside the plasma tip. Then made a hold down for the tip I mount the assembly in the lathe and turned down the bumps on the tip. The bumps gave the tip another .028" of distance when using the floating head routine and the cut guides show shielded tip to have .020 less clearance then the un-shielded tips.
Anyway that's my store and I'm sticking to it.

have fun
Tom

cmoses2
06-02-2013, 03:15 PM
Without a doubt that is one cool spud (spud = temporary holding device, I dont vouch for the provenance for the name).
Can you do me a favor... mike the od & id of the tip and the id and thickness of the ring, post it here or message me, I may have replacement tips that are already what you desire.
See a post titled "can someone identify these tips" or something like that, or simply look up my posts, and look at the tips I describe.
cm2

cmoses2
06-02-2013, 03:19 PM
make that OD and thickness of the ring at the bottom, why would we care about ID
cm2

acourtjester
06-02-2013, 05:47 PM
Ok the tip is .520” tall main OD is .425” OD of ring is .563”
The ring is .050” thick tip ID is .302” and .435” inside height
The ring is .034” off the bottom of the tip’s bottom.

How does the fit your tips

Have fun
Tom

cmoses2
06-03-2013, 04:11 PM
Ok the tip is .520” tall main OD is .425” OD of ring is .563”
The ring is .050” thick tip ID is .302” and .435” inside height
The ring is .034” off the bottom of the tip’s bottom.

How does the fit your tips

Have fun
Tom

Unfortunately not very well here is a picture of my tip with the measurements. The height is way off, I measure the total height, if you measured from top of ring just subtract (.055+.045) and then compare.
cm2

acourtjester
06-03-2013, 06:51 PM
well poop I would really like a smaller tip.
Thanks

Gadget
06-03-2013, 07:13 PM
You could always try Tiging the opening then drilling out the size you want.

seeimadeit
12-20-2014, 05:33 PM
Hi Tom

I'm about to start on a CNC for myself. did you ever post a video of this? how did the chain drive workout? I was thinking of using timing-belts. The 640/570 oz steppers: that seams a bit heavy duty to me, was there a reason for using big motors like that?
what would you do different / any tips you can give me.
what stepper drivers did you use?


Thanks
Peter

battoforever
03-08-2015, 04:26 AM
hi Tom.

Wow looks like a great job. seems like a lot of work has gone into getting such a quality machine. well done
Im looking into building a bigger table and have been scanning over many different designs and this concept has some great characteristics. I'm thinking of going for a chain drive as i think it will be the easiest/cheapest way to work the x axis but i was just a bit unsure if the chain drive system was very accurate when using it as a router table or if it had any play/racking in the axis.
By looking at one of your first plasma tables it looks like you have continued with using the #35 3/8 chains and sprockets, do you feel that this is a big enough chain size for a router table of this size? or did you have any problems in general with the chain drive system at all?

Cheers and what a nice job on your machines they all look great.
Batto

Dumitru Ivanov
03-09-2017, 11:32 PM
You could always try Tiging the opening then drilling out the size you want.Indeed.
That should work just fine.
_______________________
Dumitru

acourtjester
03-10-2017, 06:45 AM
Hi
It has been a long time since I posted here, many things going on I have build 6 tables total and sold 4. Last 3 have bee 4' X 8' and I have sold over 380 sets of plans for other to build their own table. here are some images and videos.:joker
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tet2rRsqBts

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fErYc7Wi1ps&list=UUrWyAGIpMmQfMwq0KTKpuRw

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rz7nVt1EvX0 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rz7nVt1EvX0)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GhfvyUvMKdo (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GhfvyUvMKdo)

Gadget
03-11-2017, 06:40 AM
Makes me wish I had room for one of them. Nice looking units Tom. Glad to see you back too.

Rossi
02-15-2018, 04:50 AM
Good Morning! I'm from Brazil, please can you provide me the files in DXF, Thank you, my email is contato@rossiguerra.com.br

Gadget
02-15-2018, 04:04 PM
Rossi, Tom sells the plans but I haven't seen him on here for awhile now.

Rossi
02-15-2018, 04:46 PM
Ok, Thank you
thank youthank youthank youthank youthank you

Rossi
02-15-2018, 04:46 PM
Ok, Thank you
thank you