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My CNC Plasma Build log..



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brucer
09-26-2011, 08:14 PM
I've got a decent start on my cnc plasma... so far i've milled the aluminum rails to length, drilled & counterbored and also tapped the end holes and bolted it all together.. The top Aluminum frame is square within .005.. when i milled all the rails, i used a mill stop and cut them using a 3/4" carbide endmill so all of them were the same length and square...

heres an included picture of the aluminum frame.

brucer
09-26-2011, 08:22 PM
i've started on the frame for my table... i'm using 1 1/2" x1/4" angle for the frame.. I need to buy another stick, I thought I had one beside the garge but evidently i used it sometime or another.. I also need to buy my rail material, i'm planning on using 2" x 1/4" or 2 1/2 x1/4" crs for the rails... I'm going to make my own skates using the abec7 skate bearings..
The frame has also been all milled to length and for the moment it is just tacked together.. I'm going to get it all tacked together and get the rails mounted then i'll weld it solid, i'll make up my mind then if i want to tig it or mig it..

here are some pictures of the aluminum frame mounted to the frame and the frame tacked together... the inside measurements of the aluminum frame is 50x40..

Gadget
09-27-2011, 08:51 AM
Are the two braces in the middle going to stay? Might be a problem when plasma cutting.

brucer
09-27-2011, 12:14 PM
yes the 2 pieces in the middle will stay, i plan on using a water table.

Gadget
09-27-2011, 05:31 PM
Ah, that makes sense then.

KHK
09-28-2011, 02:31 PM
Looking Great, you will be cutting in no time..

brucer
09-29-2011, 01:33 AM
had to pick up another stick of 1 1/2x 1/4" angle, sawed 4 pcs for the center cross braces and drilled the bolt holes in them and tacked them up.. also cut 4 caster plates while i was at it, still need to drill bolt holes in the caster plates.

samsberr
10-12-2011, 08:30 PM
Looking good...your going to love your CNC...
Everything I build now centers around what I can cut on mine...
It's nice that you can cut alum. To...
Looking for the next installment of pics...

tomsign
10-13-2011, 03:22 PM
brucer, nice start, and nice fab. you will be happy when it done, back when I was doing things, I used to do by hand, then found that I would run 12 miles over the Mnt. just to cut on my buds PlasmaCam.
CNC is for surely awesome
tomsign

JolietJames
10-14-2011, 05:56 AM
I had an offer to buy a nearly new torchmate 2X2 a few months ago for a reasonable price. At the time we were saving for the DP on our house in Tucson so I coulnd't spend any money on tools. I hated not buying it because I knew I was going to be kicking myself for passing it up. I hope your project turns out great. Someday I WILL have one. Of course I might rather have your mill before a plasma table. And a lathe. And a... I need to go buy a lottery ticket.

gilly
10-14-2011, 09:07 PM
Your CNC table is coming along nicely.I envy you being able to build it from scratch.I'll probably end up having to buy one.

brucer
10-15-2011, 12:15 PM
got a little more done to it... i had some pictures of the welds and during fab, but i bought a new phone last week and was taking pictures with it.. well i found out i cant upload pics from my new phone to my computer.. some reason its not letting me.... i took some more pictures with my old blackberry.. i added casters, and got it painted safety blue... next thing i have to do is make about 50 T-nuts to bolt the extrusion to the frame and rails to the extrusion.... i still havent made up my mind if i want to go with a rack drive or chain drive.. i'm leaning towards rack still, but chain drive will be way cheaper.. i'll decide in a couple weeks..

heres what i got so far.

brucer
10-15-2011, 12:19 PM
a few more pics.

Gadget
10-15-2011, 02:18 PM
Looking very nice.

arandall
10-15-2011, 03:10 PM
It's starting to look good Brucer. - - I'm jealous already!

brucer
10-16-2011, 02:43 PM
added leveling feet, went simple and cheap with faced carriage bolts, faced flats on the head of the bolts.. the feet on the table are tapped and will use a locknut on the topside when i level the table for use.. cost like $4 for 4 carriage bolts and 8 nuts.

Gadget
10-16-2011, 05:57 PM
I did something very similar on mine, works great.

Nick
10-16-2011, 11:14 PM
Very pretty. When it's all said and done, and you've knocked out a few projects and then suddenly realized just how useful it is... Crack a beer and think of me. ^_^ (Then post up to tease us all about how great it is to have a diy cnc setup....)

arandall
10-17-2011, 02:08 PM
The carriage bolts are the cat's ass. Consider your idea stolen!

brucer
10-19-2011, 03:39 PM
update, made 100 rectangle nuts and got the extrusion all bolted to the frame.. here at home i have a speed square and its showing within .005 with feeler gauges.. i'll live with it..

heres what i have so far, i think its looking pretty good.. next up will be the rails, skates and gantry.. I', going to think on this a bit before i jump in, so it might be a while till another update.. i have 2 plans of attack and i want to decide if i want the rails mounted on the sides or top of the extrusion, then i'll go from there..

JolietJames
10-19-2011, 04:55 PM
You planning to use this with the 40i?

arandall
10-19-2011, 05:42 PM
OK - I'll show my ignorance - - What are rectangle nuts??

brucer
10-19-2011, 08:08 PM
they go in the slots, they arent T-nuts, or square nuts... they are rectangle 3/4" x .656" with a 5/16 tapped hole..

---------- Post added at 09:05 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:58 PM ----------

you can buy them buy the bag, but i had 3/4" material donated and i had time over the weekend so i just made them..

---------- Post added at 09:07 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:05 PM ----------



---------- Post added at 09:08 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:07 PM ----------


You planning to use this with the 40i?


planning on it..

Nick
10-21-2011, 12:22 AM
Keep at it boss. We need more little people sticking it to the man. :D

Not trying to call you little, but Arandall said he saw you in the shower.... :o

brucer
10-29-2011, 04:47 PM
got a chance to mess with the plasma table some today...
i got some 2"x2"x1/4" angle, i'm going to look at making my rails out of it..... i cut it to length today and milled the ends and drilled the bolt holes in it, i offset the holes so that i have .530 hanging over the edge for the bearing to ride on... my plans are to drill and ream dowels to locate the rail in the t-slot in the extrusion, then i'm going to bolt the rail on an extra piece of extrusion i have and use it as a fixture.. then i will mill one side of the 2x2 down to 1.020 inch making it 2"x1.020", which should get it flat then i'm going to drill and tap 3/16 bolt holes on the side of the rails so i can adjust the rails on the ends... i'm leaving material on the 1.020 side so that if i have to i can mill 4 sides of the angle to true it all up with it mounted on the extrusion fixture...

heres some pics to give you guys an idea... cost in the rails so far is $15 for material. heck maybe you guys can give me some ideas too.

Gadget
10-29-2011, 06:06 PM
Looking good.

brucer
11-04-2011, 08:33 PM
small update..

i added 4 roll pinds to each rail, i also added 3 more bolt holes.. that will put 11 bolts and 4 roll pins in each rail.. that should be plenty stout enough.. I made the rails out of 2x2x1/4" angle, i then bolted the rails unto an extra piece of extrusion i had to act as a make shift fixture... i roughed one side of the 2x2 down to .930 leaving stock... then my next move will be to bolt the rails to the table, then i will unbolt the extrusion sides of the the table (the rails will remain bolted to them) then i will finish machine the vertical rail to .875 and just skim the rest to square all the sides up.. i was worried about how true the rails were going to end up, after roll pinning and adding extra bolts i'm still worried a little but i'm pretty sure the rails are pretty solid and should move.. this is one reason why i roughed the rails first then bolted them to the table... it will give the rails time to relax a little :)

INSANITY
11-04-2011, 08:41 PM
She's comin' along! Man I would be so geared to get that thing done!

brucer
11-04-2011, 11:39 PM
i'm in no hurry... but still geared to get it done..

KHK
11-05-2011, 11:22 AM
It is coming along. Looking good!!

brucer
11-05-2011, 08:44 PM
took the side extrusions off the table, added all the T-nuts, bolted the side extrusions back on the table, then bolted the angle rails onto the extrusions, hopefully that should be the last time for that.. think i've disassembled this thing about 10times at this point..

just messing around, I set the side assemblies back up in the mill and took them down to within .008 of each other on the height and thickness.. just machining the top edge of the rails, one rail come within .003 the other rail come within .008, and i havent cut the other side yet, so I'm measuring off of the mill scale (un-machined surface) on the bottom side of the angle rail... i'm pretty confident its going to come in plenty close enough for a hobby type table..

a friend stopped by and brought a couple of eccentric rollers, i'm planning on using throughout the build so i can good solid adjustment on the gantry, he's bringing me 6 more to match the 2 i already have, that will give me 4 for the x axis and 4 for the y axis..
added some more pictures of the rail assemblies and also the eccentric rollers..

i hope i'm not boring you guys too much, i'm really wanting to get into the build stage of the skates and gantry hopefully next weekend, i still need to pillage more parts though...
not doing to bad for no more than i have invested in it so far..

Gadget
11-06-2011, 07:13 AM
Not boring at all Bruce, I eagerly await each update. You going to have rollers top, bottom, and side or just top and side? Also, where did you get your extrusions and how much did they cost?

brucer
11-06-2011, 11:55 AM
gadget,

I plan on having the bearings on all four sides of the rail to completely capture the rail and 2 sides on each of the skates will be adjustable... when i design the skates, i plan on making them fit a larger rail of the same configuration, that way if this turns out to not be strout enough, i will make the rails out of 2 pieces of solid crs and make them with 5/16 and 9/16 stock..

i got the extrusions from a friend, he give me all i needed for the table build, he bought a modular office at a salvage auction for dirt cheap,(like $20 or something ridiculous like that) he bought it for the extrusion.. i posted a picture in another post on here of the pile of extrusion he had available, told me to take all i needed... i'll see if i can find that old post..

so far i have just over $100 in the build..

---------- Post added at 12:50 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:45 PM ----------

i have a pretty cool idea on the skates, i cant believe no one hasnt made any like i plan on making them... i cant find anyone on the internet that has anyways..

---------- Post added at 12:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:50 PM ----------

here ya go gadget...

http://www.longevity-inc.com/forum/attachments/cnc-machines-submerged-arc-automated-systems-other-cutting-methods/2132d1296255965-have-some-stupid-questions-fo-ryou-guys-built-your-own-tables-img00342-20110128-1237.jpg

arandall
11-06-2011, 12:14 PM
Keep at it Brucer - it's going to be nice!!

Bluesman
11-07-2011, 07:23 AM
maybe you can get all the kinks worked out on this prototype build and start cranking these babies out for the public. :)

JolietJames
11-21-2011, 11:04 AM
Any updates? I'm itching to build/buy one of these things.

brucer
11-21-2011, 02:03 PM
no updates yet, still thinking on the design of the skates, and i still need to order forty 608-2rs bearings, there not expensive, just trying to make sure that's the route i want to go for sure...
the design i have floating around in my head seems like a logical approach, but you know how that goes.

JolietJames
11-29-2011, 02:37 PM
OK keep us informed. I'd like to learn as much as possible about building one of these. I'm buying one for sure in the spring if I don't build one sooner -it's already in the budget!

brucer
12-09-2011, 10:29 AM
I have an update somewhat... I ordered 60 abec7 608zz metal shielded bearings. Total come up to a whopping 29.90 and free shipping.. I dont need that many but its nice to have some extras plus my little buffalo/harbor freight horizontal bandsaw used them for guides i'll have 12 extra to throw in the toolbox..

the bearings are just the standard skate bearings nothing special..
http://www.vxb.com/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/abec7-1.jpg

Gadget
12-09-2011, 10:51 AM
Same bearings I used on my table too Bruce, should work fine.

brucer
12-09-2011, 03:05 PM
Same bearings I used on my table too Bruce, should work fine.

cool,

I'm still trying to decide which way i shoiuld make the skates adjustable... if i should make the bearing adjustable from the inside or outside of the rail.. I dont guess it will matter as long as i adjust one side then bolt the gantry beam tight on the first side, then go to the other side and adjust that skate in then tighten the gantry beam down on the second side..

what you guys think?

Gadget
12-09-2011, 05:51 PM
I would make either side adjustable (your preference) on one end and both sides adjustable on the other side. That would make it easier to get the far side tuned in (my opinion)

brucer
12-12-2011, 10:09 PM
bearings come in the mail today.. I wasnt expecting them until Wednesday.

29.90+free shipping for 60 bearings.

acourtjester
12-15-2011, 11:46 AM
Hi Brucer
Been looking overr you table build, I am far behind you. I have been working on the linear bearing assemble. I am using a cold rolled steel rod for the slider shaft. I did not come up with this design this guy did Fourth Prototype (http://www.buildyouridea.com/cnc/hblb/hblb_prototype/prototype_4.html)
It is a lost foam type casting for aluminum much faster then sand casting.
I am going to use a 1” round for the “X” slide shaft and ¾” on “Y” & “Z”. Have you figured out what size steppers you will be using? I’m looking at maybe a 3’ X 5’ table.

Have fun
Tom

gilly
12-15-2011, 03:13 PM
Very cool part you made.I find myself trying to figure out how you cut the slots for the side roller bearings.Heck, making that foam mold as precise as you did had to be a job much less making the whole piece from scratch.You do very nice work.

Gadget
12-15-2011, 03:32 PM
I gotta start building a hot wire foam cutter. Those bearing trucks look like they will work great.

acourtjester
12-15-2011, 04:17 PM
I made 2 jigs for my mill to hold the linear bearing cast at the correct angle and used a end mill to cut the slots.
The bearings in one of the slots has setscrews to adjust the pressure for the bearing to shaft. They roll very nicely.
I setup a panograph and used a patern to guide the hot wire cutter to shape the foam.
have fun
Tom

brucer
12-15-2011, 05:19 PM
Hi Brucer
Been looking overr you table build, I am far behind you. I have been working on the linear bearing assemble. I am using a cold rolled steel rod for the slider shaft. I did not come up with this design this guy did Fourth Prototype (http://www.buildyouridea.com/cnc/hblb/hblb_prototype/prototype_4.html)
It is a lost foam type casting for aluminum much faster then sand casting.
I am going to use a 1” round for the “X” slide shaft and ¾” on “Y” & “Z”. Have you figured out what size steppers you will be using? I’m looking at maybe a 3’ X 5’ table.

Have fun
Tom


are you planning on having any kind of adjustment on the trucks?

---------- Post added at 06:13 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:01 PM ----------

i read where your using set screws for adjustment... be sure to use thompson shaft or something hardened for your rails... i was going to use supported round rails, but the cost of the thompson shaft was more than i wanted to spend... i decided to go with the angle iron rails because it was cheap, and it give me more contact surface on the bearings..

I plan on using 425oz steppers. I think I'm also going to use acme screw thread to drive the Z axis, it should make the Z axis stouter for routing/milling.

---------- Post added at 06:19 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:13 PM ----------

after looking at the link you posted of the 4th prototype, i looked at that website when i was planning and designing my table..


My skate design is somewhat unique, they are a like the CNCRouterParts (http://www.cncrouterparts.com) skates but the adjustment is different, and my skates capture 4 sides instead of three sides.

KHK
12-15-2011, 06:31 PM
Excellent work!! I am sure that your table will last a long time.

acourtjester
12-15-2011, 07:12 PM
see attached picture for info on linear bearing skates.

acourtjester
12-18-2011, 11:33 AM
I did not want to Hi-jack brucer's thread with my info so I started another.
http://www.longevity-inc.com/forum/cnc-machines-submerged-arc-automated-systems-other-cutting-methods/3417-diy-plasma-router-table.html#post34549

have fun
Tom

brucer
12-31-2011, 05:19 PM
got a little done on my skates...
cut and squared material yesterday, machined the outer part of the skates and the steel inserts. I still have to drill&tap 1/4-20 holes on the bottom for the adjusting screws, and i'm also milling slots to bolt bearings for the inside and oute bearings for the rails.. Still quite a bit to do to them but this will give you an idea in the direction i'm going..

brucer
12-31-2011, 05:28 PM
set on of the pieces of the skate on one of the roughed in rails..

Gadget
12-31-2011, 08:19 PM
It looks good but is there going to be anything on the skates to prevent side to side movement?

acourtjester
12-31-2011, 08:24 PM
are you going to add another bearing for this surface???

brucer
01-01-2012, 01:27 PM
are you going to add another bearing for this surface???


yes, i'm going to cut two slots and insert 2 bearings in that part of the skate, then there will be another leg sticking off to the left, with another adjustable rail on it..

acourtjester
01-01-2012, 02:16 PM
Sounds like you have the details all worked out. You will end up with a table that will last and do great work for you.

Have fun
Tom

brucer
01-01-2012, 06:50 PM
done a little on the top pieces, cut the bearing clearances on the top pieces...
the top piece will be doweled and bolted to the side skates, then there will be another adjusting rail on the inside...

I'm also seeing it looking pretty easy to add some felt wipers later on, I'll get the basic gantry built before I get too far ahead of myself..

The black squares drawn out on the pieces are somewhat where the side bearings will end up

Gadget
01-01-2012, 08:11 PM
Looking good Bruce.

KHK
01-02-2012, 10:04 AM
I used store bought slides for my CNC, what you guys have done is GREAT!!!

brucer
01-03-2012, 12:55 PM
driver board, power supply and two 425oz steppers come in today... I thought the motors would be larger.

$250 into the electronics so far, I need 2 more motors at $50 each, so should be around $350 total for 4 axis 425oz kit..

I looked the board over, the connections on the board looked good and clean, although an import it looked of good quality.It looks pretty much like a motherboard should look...

hubbard cnc included a cd with mach3 demo, a video of my board actually getting tested, and configuration file for mach3 setup, also included instructions, wiring diagrams.....

It will be a while before i can use it butI'm still excited about it getting here today..
I can recommend Hubbard cnc, Brent at hubbard knew what he was talking about and was easy to do business with, and he acted like he wanted your business and it showed... He deals from ebay, but i called him and talked with him for about 30minutes prior to ordering, I placed my order over the phone to avoid ebay charges and got it a bit cheaper..

brucer
01-03-2012, 01:17 PM
heres a pic of the two steppers with a cd shown for size comparison..

Gadget
01-03-2012, 03:58 PM
Are those NEMA 23 motors Bruce? They're about the same physical size as my 305's and they are NEMA 23.

brucer
01-03-2012, 07:07 PM
Are those NEMA 23 motors Bruce? They're about the same physical size as my 305's and they are NEMA 23.


yes gadget they are nema 23

acourtjester
01-04-2012, 09:26 AM
HI Brucer

Thanks for the pictures showing the Motor size I too am surprised by the size. It may be the winding size is bigger to handle more current for the stronger motors. I think I will order mine so I can cast the motor mounts.

Have fun
Tom

brucer
01-04-2012, 03:00 PM
tom,

you can find nema23 and nema34 dimensions on the net pretty easy..

brucer
01-09-2012, 08:53 PM
I got a little done on the skates this weekend between basketball games and football games...

The skates are coming along rather nice and seem to be working out the way I planned. They have an 1/8" adjustment, set from .270 to 1/8".. The top adjustment plate I added an extra set of holes so if i decide to make the rails 1/2" wide instead of the 1/4" wide all I have to do is unbolt the bearings and move them back to the 2nd set of holes...

the side plates are adjustable from .935 to .805, the purpose behind that is you can order 1x2 angle to use as the side rails, but they still have to be cut to square so I figured in for material removal....

Later I will possibly make the rails from .375 thick CRS with a top piece 1/2"x3/4"doweled and bolted to it to create a heavy duty rail that would be .750x.875 if I need bigger rails for milling/routing...

brucer
01-09-2012, 08:58 PM
and here almost complete, still need to tap some holes for bolting the bearings on, and the mounting bolts and drill and tap 1/4-20 holes for the adjusting bolts.... The top piece still need the slots and c'bores..

these pics show the layout and adjustability pretty good..
I also got a plus with my design, I have a built in safety catch :)

brucer
01-09-2012, 09:21 PM
I forgot to add, both the main plates are roll pinned with two 5/16 roll pins and also bolted together with the two 5/16-18 stainless flathead bolts you can see in the last picture in post #67... They should be pretty stout...

I also offset the side bearings in enough that I could add a cover plate later on.

These things have turned out to be a quite a bit of work, not tedious, just time consuming from the design and machining standpoint, probably have around 24hrs in them from getting the material from my buddy, to sawing, designing on the fly, and machining.. pretty much prototype work..
Oh, if I only had a cnc mill at home, I think I could sell some..


and dont laugh at my fleece pajama pants, they are comfortable when its 30degrees out... actually left my blackberry out in the garage so I went and got it and shot a few update pictures..

Gadget
01-10-2012, 08:25 AM
Looks like you put a lot of thought into it Bruce, nice work.

KHK
01-10-2012, 08:32 AM
Your project is moving right along. You should be proud of it, It looks GREAT!!

brucer
01-10-2012, 07:37 PM
pretty much done with the skates for what will be my Y axis for now..
I still need to add the gantry rail mounting holes, but I'm going to do some thinking on how I want to attach the gantry and how much offset to give the gantry in Z, and also how much offset in Y...


heres the latest on the skates, If you look through the build you can see how the skates will capture the rails..

Gadget
01-20-2012, 11:03 AM
Nice looking skates Bruce. Looks like they should travel well.

brucer
01-22-2012, 12:26 PM
made some bearing blocks this am.

they measure 1.9x1.25x.3125 thick..

have an Idea floating around in my head, and went ahead and pushed the go button on it...
I ordered 10 .375 i.d./.875 o.d. flange bearings ($20 free shipping).. These will be for the drive on my y axis.. I will use .375 D-shaft with spur gear and belt and pulleys.. It should be pretty simple, the large gears are a little expensive at $19 each but should be maintenance free for the long haul..

I sawed material for the bearing blocks, squared the stock, drill bolt holes, drilled and reamed dowel pin holes on the opposite side for locating, and I also drilled and rough bored the bearing hole to .855. I'll bore the bearing bore to .874/.8745 (press fit for .875 bearing) and also counterbore one side to capture the bearing in the housing after the bearings come in the mail..

brucer
01-22-2012, 12:26 PM
sorry for the crappy pictures

brucer
02-11-2012, 09:33 PM
hi guys, been a week or so for this update.. had to dig a nasty, I mean nasty, enclosure out of a junk pile, but it was a freebie, and we like freebies. :)

I didnt take any before pics, but to let you now I had to break all the componets out of the enclosure with a grinder and cutoff wheel, I also had to weld in new pieces of tubing and drilled and tapped them to mount the component plate onto, also had to cut the side latches off and drill and tap holes for the side latches/clamps.
I got it cleaned up decently and painted the inside white, and the eclosure safety blue.. I got the power supply and driver board mounted, I put nylon standoffs under the power supply and driver board to raise them off the mounting plate..

took me about 3 days to get it cleaned up and painted to point in the pics, still need to drill a couple more holes, going to mount an outlet and sealed outlet cover plate on the enclosure so I'll have a plugin on the machine. I also plan on mounting an on/off switch to cut all power to the enclosure, and also a on/off switch on the power supply...

so far so good, a lot of work in this enclosure, a lot more than I initially thought it would be.... after i get it going I might pretty it up with some polished checkplate or maybe some polished stainless.. either that or shoot it with the largest shotgun I can get my hands on :)

brucer
02-11-2012, 09:50 PM
Also my gear racks from Moore gear and timing belt pulleys from QTC come in friday, both places were excellent to deal with, good prices and pretty fast shipping... gear racks and timing pulleys were all very good quality and will order from both places again if i need to..

wahoo, now I have plenty to do... rack clamps, motor mounts,gear reduction setup, wiring and so on.. head is spinning now..

think I'll straighten the garage up tomorrow and and start cutting some material for the motor/mounts/gear reduction setup and do some planning/designing..

as far as stuff I still need is belts, which a friend is getting for free from the place he works, and also three pinion gearsI will also get those from hubbard cnc, he sells them for like $11.99 each, I knew I was forgetting something when I placed that last order... the drive shafts will be 3/8 ejector pin, I got the ejector pin free from work..


to add, there are only 3 sets of timing belt pulleys (3:1 ratio), the other set is on the work table and is for the z axis... I decided to go with a different ratio on the z axis, it will be a 4:1 reduction, its only traveling 6-8 inches, and I dont want to be lacking torque on Z, for drilling/milling..

Ram48
02-12-2012, 07:50 AM
:2thumbs Great build.
But you need to post more pictures of that hair pin suspended, tear drop headlighted
wide white wall thing that keeps peeking into some of the pictures........................:envy

brucer
02-12-2012, 08:50 AM
:2thumbs Great build.
But you need to post more pictures of that hair pin suspended, tear drop headlighted
wide white wall thing that keeps peeking into some of the pictures........................:envy

Thats one of the reasons I'm building this table... I have some ideas floating around for some cross members and I plan on making some brake brackets and such..

Its a 27ford, real steel bucket, I built the frame about 16 yrs ago, about had it pretty much done, tore it all back down to redo it in a 60's style theme.
I have a built 700r4, 2800stall, forged flattop 355 chevy with tunnel ram and 2 x450 holleys, ford 9inch 3:70 gears.
I need a fuel tank and rear brakes and start building the shortened model A bed for it... color is a copper metallic with red pearl added to it..

KHK
02-12-2012, 09:10 AM
It looks like the e-box has a fan in the lower left of the box are you going to install a fan?

acourtjester
02-12-2012, 09:14 AM
Brucer you will cut a lot more then brake brackets when you get through with the table. That's why I'm also building a table.
here is what I used in the past.
Oxy-Acc Flame Pattern Cutter - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hdhEtUS_hew)
Street rodders need newer tools from time to time. ha ha ha

Tom

brucer
02-12-2012, 09:35 AM
It looks like the e-box has a fan in the lower left of the box are you going to install a fan?

hey keith,

The black thing in the lower left is a filter panel, I'm going to mount the fan to the right of the driver board to create a cross flow..

arandall
02-12-2012, 12:38 PM
I agree with Ram48 - pics of the "T" please!

brucer
02-14-2012, 05:45 PM
another small update... control box is pretty much done i think... I added a power switch and a receptacle on the outside of the enclosure and used one of those weatherproof outlet covers..
I also read where these drive boards run pretty warm, so I added an extra fan on the board, and removed the factory fan that was powered from the board. I also added the exhaust fan that creates the crossflow for ventilation..
I also added the 110v outlet inside the enclosure to run the 12vdc transformer that runs all the fans..

acourtjester
02-14-2012, 07:38 PM
looking great nice clean box for the electroincs.

Gadget
02-14-2012, 07:43 PM
Neat and tidy, good job.

KHK
02-14-2012, 11:39 PM
Looking GREAT!

brucer
02-14-2012, 11:41 PM
thanks guys, its a lot more work than it looks..
still need to double check it, going to call an electrician friend and hes going to look it over and test out the power supply before hook the stepper motors and computer up to it..

I still need to add a plate where the parallel cable runs out the bottom of the enclosure and also put a cable clamp on it.. also need a plug for the hole in the top...

I think I figured out how to wire the steppers... I believe I'm going to wire the motor bi-polar/parallel.. I didnt realize you could wire these steppers for speed or torque, all depends how you wire them (series or parallel) , I also read you can also wire them to where they will run over rated torque, but you need a bigger power supply, the steppers can run at like 140% rated torque..
I'll have to do some more reading on them.. I might post a picture of the wiring diagram and see what you guys think..

brucer
02-22-2012, 09:33 PM
another update,

think I finished up my 4:1 gear ruduction and motor plates.. I'll look them over tomorrow and double check to make sure thats all they'll need, I think they turned out pretty good..

I added way more holes than needed to be around the perimeter of the top plate.. I like that kind of drilled I-beam axle look, so I said what the heck and kept on drilling..

Gadget
02-23-2012, 07:13 AM
That thing is going to be awesome. Nice work.

acourtjester
02-23-2012, 08:33 AM
Brucer
You are having tooooo much fun with this DIY project. Now then when your are finished you need to have a BBQ and invite your buddies over to show that thing off.
I bet there will be dancing in the street that day. building without plans really make you keep the mind active.
Very nice detail work.

brucer
02-27-2012, 05:36 PM
Hey guys,


have another update...

had to pull both skates off and drill and tap them, then I decided to go ahead and add roll pins to locate the gantry plates...


left and right skates pictured..

brucer
02-27-2012, 05:40 PM
Oh my, whats this..

I'm loading more updates.. made some good progress this weekend..
Here's the left and right side gantry plates..

brucer
02-27-2012, 05:51 PM
some more update photos.


The slots the gantry beam sets in, I milled them with .002 press fit, I can take a hammer handle and gentry knock the beam in place.. The adjustment will be on the angle brackets that will bolt to the side plates... I dont think I'll need any adjustment, as close as I could read with calipers the z axis was within .005 as it sits.. I wasnt aiming to get it that close, but the way I designed it, It had no choice... Later on I'm going to bolt either a piece of 1 1/2" heavy angle or another piece of the single extrusion across the back of the gantry beam to stiffen it up more and add more mass, but I want to see how well my steppers will move it the way it is for now..

The last 2 pictures are a scale I stuck on there to show the z from the gantry beam.. from the beam to the extrusion base is 6 1/4", from the gantry beam to the top of the side rails is 4 3/8"..

Gadget
02-27-2012, 06:12 PM
Really looking nice Brucer. Wish I had the money to make a G2 for myself.

brucer
03-02-2012, 07:46 PM
made some endplates for the gantry beam, these will bolt to the side plates and connect the gantry beam to the side plates..

I also made some top clamps, but my battery died before I could get some pictures.. I'll post them tomorrow..

Gadget
03-02-2012, 08:13 PM
Really coming along nice, you'll be cutting with the table before you know it.

KHK
03-02-2012, 08:20 PM
Really looking good! It looks like you have the hardest part of the project done!!

brucer
03-15-2012, 07:37 PM
I'll have a update tomorrow or Saturday.. I had bronchitis for the last week and a half, finally got it licked i think..

I spent the last couple days making my rack mounts, plan on drilling the rack gears tomorrow and get them mounted, I'll post up some pictures

brucer
03-17-2012, 06:13 PM
Have a little update..

I got the rack gear mounts made, and assembled.. I mounted the two opposite sides and also drilled the long axis rack gear...
I also got my motor adjustments somewhat together, my normal bolt supplier was closed Saturday so I had to get regular hex head bolts, I'll swap them out for some socket head cap screws next week sometime..

It turned out pretty much like I planned, so far so good..

Gadget
03-17-2012, 08:02 PM
You're making me want to start on G2 Brucer, nice work.

brucer
03-17-2012, 08:27 PM
You're making me want to start on G2 Brucer, nice work.


gadget,

I have to ask what a g2 is? I'm just guessing but is it a brand of table?

or is that gantry #2 :)

Gadget
03-18-2012, 09:22 AM
That's my CNC table generation two ;-)

brucer
03-24-2012, 12:42 PM
heres a little update...

I couldnt stand it anymore, had to wire up the y axis and see how it was going to work... Initial testing went well, no racking at all, I was actually able to turn it up faster than what i thought, i'll probably have to turn down the speed some after i get the x and z axis added because of the added weight..

tuned the motors at half step and full step, 75% power and 100%..

the video is taken with the motors set to full step, at 900ipm 25 acceleration..

so far so good.. sorry the video isnt the best quality.

http://youtu.be/5o6xqcVcUzI

Charley Davidson
03-24-2012, 01:02 PM
Sweeeeeeeeet!!!!!!!!! Makes me want to get Crack-A-Lackin on mine,, I just got laid off from work so I need to get this thing working and get some work for it.

Gadget
03-24-2012, 02:42 PM
Wow that's pretty fast movement. I can only get about 90IPM on mine and that's on a warm day. I will never use lead screws again if I have it a chance to do over.

Xalky
03-24-2012, 04:05 PM
Hey Brucer: Nice build.... I'm in the process of building a 4x4 table also.... I'm smiling over here because our tables are similar in many ways. I'm also doing a 4 to 1 belt reduction on my table. I'm gonna start a new build thread for my build. I've stolen ideas from just about every cnc table I've seen, home built and store bought. :) Keep up the nice work.:2thumbs

KHK
03-24-2012, 04:27 PM
Excelent job! Nice quick movement.

brucer
03-25-2012, 09:48 PM
I'm a big college basketball fan, and 2 of my teams are still in the ncaa tournament, but I still got some more done on the table this weekend...

I had to add some 1 1/2" angle to mount the enclosure on..
I also ran a piece to mount the cable carrier trough to, and I used some 3" long pieces of extrusion for standoffs for mounting the trough, the trough is 3" alum. channel i had in my pile...

pics with the enclosure mounted, and trough put together..

acourtjester
03-26-2012, 08:22 AM
Looks like you are getting ready for the smell of plasma in the morning.
very nice work.
have fun
Tom

brucer
03-31-2012, 01:31 AM
minor update...

got the mount and swing arm welded up and mounted on the table for the computer cabinet... and painted it of course..

KHK
03-31-2012, 09:39 AM
Looks really good.

Gadget
03-31-2012, 02:51 PM
Gonna be a beautiful beast.

poodle
04-04-2012, 07:39 PM
Brucer, your CNC is a piece of art. I went back through and looked at your pictures there is some real work in that thing. Ready to see some vids. when you finish it up.

brucer
04-07-2012, 10:52 PM
Update..

I took pictures of the cabinet frame, but they are my other phone and I cant upload them for some reason.. The frame is 1/2" square tubing, I tig welded it together, I painted the frame the safety blue, it turned out better than I thought it would..

I got the cabinet built and skinned for the computer and monitor and surge protector.. I mounted the surge protector inside the cabinet, ran the surge protector plug to the enclosure on the machine, the computer and monitor is plugged into the surge protector, I'll also add a nice big usb hard drive later on.... I might also add a small exhaust fan on the left side of the cabinet..

I also still need to add a side door to cover the computer compartment and for access to the dvd and floppy drive, I'm using a cabinet magnet latch on the bottom of the door, I also still need to find a simple handle to mount on the door..

I programmed a 94z28 for a guy on Wednesday, that gave me an extra $100 to splurge on the monitor, its a 19" LED widescreen Asus monitor with 2yr warranty..
I still need to add a pull-out table for the mouse, I'm going to mount it under the cabinet, directly under the keyboard, thought that would be a cool place to hide it when not in use...

brucer
04-07-2012, 10:59 PM
one more picture of the side

Gadget
04-08-2012, 08:03 AM
Really looking good. You may find that you have to shield the mouse if it's going to be outside the cabinet.

KHK
04-08-2012, 08:41 AM
Nice Job!!

Charley Davidson
04-08-2012, 12:28 PM
I'm so jealous

brucer
04-08-2012, 05:17 PM
Heres a few more pictures of the computer cabinet..
I added the exhaust fan, a toggle switch to turn the fan on/off and I mounted the door ..

brucer
04-12-2012, 11:40 PM
small update..

I got the gantry rail finished up and mounted tonight..

Gadget
04-13-2012, 08:02 AM
That thing is looking sweet, I sure wish I could do a do over on mine.

acourtjester
04-13-2012, 08:46 AM
You be getting down to the finishing point and the sparks will fly soon.
I like you computer box.

have fun
Tom

brucer
04-13-2012, 08:57 AM
That thing is looking sweet, I sure wish I could do a do over on mine.
Maybe You should gadget..
You might start sourcing parts for a future build, you could make the brackets with your existing plasma table..

The biggest expenses on mine were the gear racks, stepper motors and led monitor. I'll get a thc at some point, and will probably upgrade the electronics... everyone says the tb6560 is junk and I should upgrade the electronics at some point.. I will probably get the individual drivers and bob like tom did..

---------- Post added at 09:57 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:47 AM ----------

To let you guys know, the 425oz steppers are pretty stout with the 4:1 gear reduction... when I put it in mdi and do a feed move I can literally lean all my weight on the gantry and it still pushes me.. I weigh 235lbs.. When I rapid it takes a little pressure for it to stall, I think it could be more to do with the tb6560 driver board though...

I might plan on upgrading the electronics later on... go with the individual bob and drivers, I think I would be more satisfied with them, and people are telling I would see a drastic increase in performance..

brucer
04-15-2012, 04:03 PM
update,

did some design work and started machining the carriage..

The first picture is a drawing of the gantry profile.. the front mount plate and the lower bearing plate will be pinned together to hold them square with each other.. I plan on leaving the top bearing plate unpinned so it somewhat floats so I can adjust the pressure on the rail...

The very top plate that sticks out from the front plate about 1 1/2" will have set screws in it and it will be pinned and bolted to the front plate, this is where the pressure adjustment will come from.. To tighten the gantry up so it pinches the rail, I just loosen the top bearing plate and adjust tension with the set screws then lock the bearing plate back down.. there will also be a plate on the back connecting the two bearing plates.

Do you guys see any kind of problem with this method?

brucer
04-23-2012, 09:02 PM
Here's another quick update..

I did the design work on my x axis, and started machining/building it... I put it on the gantry and adjusted it, seems to work well and actually very quick, rolls nice and smooth.. I might have to add some weight to it, I drilled and tapped a couple holes on the back plate in case I need to add some counterweight, we'll see..

hope you guys like it so far..

brucer
04-23-2012, 09:05 PM
few more pics

poodle
04-23-2012, 09:18 PM
I admire your work sir. Top notch all the way.

brucer
04-23-2012, 10:31 PM
I admire your work sir. Top notch all the way.

thank you very much

Gadget
04-24-2012, 04:00 AM
Great work and well thought out, it should be a great machine when done.

KHK
04-24-2012, 09:25 AM
This machine should outlast an a bom!!!

brucer
04-24-2012, 08:48 PM
got the adjustment plates finished up tonight, I just took pictures of the top plate, bottom plate is the same as the top one..
The next few days I will be working on the gear reduction assembly and motor plate... Hopefully I'll have the 2nd axis running by the weekend..

Gadget
04-25-2012, 06:45 AM
You're really coming along fast and it's looking great.

brucer
04-26-2012, 12:37 AM
update..

got the gear reduction/motor mount made this evening, I already had the stock sawed and squared, and actually drew it up yesterday.. doesnt take long to machine the plates, the bottom plate took like and hour to drill it and bore it for the press fit bearing, the upper plate takes a bit longer because of the slots for the adjustable motor mount, but it probably only took a couple of hours and I was watching a movie while I was doing it..

Its getting there..

Gadget
04-26-2012, 05:28 AM
You really do great work, nice.

brucer
04-26-2012, 11:05 AM
You really do great work, nice.

thank you very much gadget..

brucer
05-04-2012, 05:55 PM
heres the linear slides and trucks I sourced, cost $0 so i'm using them for the time being because I like Free....

Each one is about 4.2" long... they are thk brand, they are practically new, two of them are new, they were vacuum packed in the factory packaging...

I'm going to mount two rails on each side and have two trucks per side, going to set them up so I have about 5" of travel, I plan on making the axis completely enclosed..

I started on it it but decided I didnt like the way it was turning out, so I'm redesigning and adding some features..

---------- Post added at 06:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:54 PM ----------

having problems uploading pics, getting some kind of data error from the website.

Gadget
05-04-2012, 06:37 PM
I'm reporting it to the developers now.

brucer
05-04-2012, 07:15 PM
I'm reporting it to the developers now.
ok thanks gadget, on that note, Think i'm going to go take a nap :)

Xalky
05-05-2012, 10:10 AM
Looking good. You'll have that thing running in no time. You're only a few weeks behind me. Awesome.

brucer
05-05-2012, 06:27 PM
heres the pictures of the slides and skates my buddy donated to the cause..

http://weldingweb.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=155731&stc=1&d=1336263810
http://weldingweb.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=155741&stc=1&d=1336263823

brucer
05-07-2012, 03:43 PM
just testing..

and it worked. :clap

brucer
05-10-2012, 02:01 AM
couple pictures of my x axis assembled..

Gadget
05-10-2012, 06:58 AM
Nice work, it's really taking shape.

Xalky
06-04-2012, 03:12 PM
How's the build coming along. Any new progress?

brucer
06-04-2012, 11:08 PM
I'll try to work it in here in the next few weeks..
I took a breather on it for the last few weeks, having to put daisy down it kind of had me bummed out. I did do some drawing on the z axis and sawed material over the weekend... I'm also getting ready to order a bunch of parts for my Tbucket and I've been pricing stuff and lining up a powdercoater, laying some stuff out to go to my stepbrother for paint, tearing down and cleaning up a 9" rearend and yada yada yada, and so on.. and i've been doing a little wetsanding on my 98 transam ;)

kind of sounds like I have ADD huh? :)

undercut
06-05-2012, 12:19 AM
I'll try to work it in here in the next few weeks.. I took a breather on it for the last few weeks, having to put daisy down it kind of had me bummed out. I did do some drawing on the z axis and sawed material over the weekend... I'm also getting ready to order a bunch of parts for my Tbucket and I've been pricing stuff and lining up a powdercoater, laying some stuff out to go to my stepbrother for paint, tearing down and cleaning up a 9" rearend and yada yada yada, and so on.. and i've been doing a little wetsanding on my 98 transam ;) kind of sounds like I have ADD huh? :) Yup, you definitely do sound .... what were we talking about again?? :D

Xalky
06-05-2012, 05:38 AM
It's good to hear that your still mlving on it. I think you'll be fine with your plasma cutter, it looks like the problem with my machine seems to have something to do with the tig start doubling as a plasma start. Apparently Longevity is aware of the problem and it looks like they might discontinue it.

Check Harbor Freight for a small poweder coating gun setup. Apparently it's pretty good for the price.

undercut
06-05-2012, 11:51 AM
Check Harbor Freight for a small poweder coating gun setup. Apparently it's pretty good for the price. Funny you should mention that ... I was just there the other day eye'ing those products too .... :D

brucer
06-27-2012, 07:49 PM
I caught Eastwoods Dual voltage hot coat starter kit on sale for like $149.99 so i jumped and bought it and a lb of chrome and a pound of super gloss clear.. oh joy

brucer
06-27-2012, 08:50 PM
getting back on track... my new covered linear actuator, woot..

brucer
07-07-2012, 12:29 AM
got the Z axis actuator mounted...

its still been too hot to do much of anything in the garage.. was 106 here today, suppose to get up to 108 tomorrow still no rain, This is the hottest and driest I've ever seen it here, I've lived here for 42 yrs...We're suppose to be getting some cooler weather this week so maybe I can get out there and get caught up a little.. I need an a/c unit bad..

also got a new phone, I use walmart straight talk because it costs $47.70 for unlimited everything. They just come out with the zte merit 990g (android smart phone) on at&t's gsm network. The darn phone is smarter than I am.. It does have a nice 5mega pixel camera and video recorder with autofocus, this picture is taken with it set at 2 megapixel and normal detail..

undercut
07-07-2012, 12:48 AM
got the Z axis actuator mounted... its still been too hot to do much of anything in the garage.. was 106 here today, suppose to get up to 108 tomorrow still no rain, This is the hottest and driest I've ever seen it here, I've lived here for 42 yrs...We're suppose to be getting some cooler weather this week so maybe I can get out there and get caught up a little.. I need an a/c unit bad.. also got a new phone, I use walmart straight talk because it costs $47.70 for unlimited everything. They just come out with the zte merit 990g (android smart phone) on at&t's gsm network. The darn phone is smarter than I am.. It does have a nice 5mega pixel camera and video recorder with autofocus, this picture is taken with it set at 2 megapixel and normal detail.. Looks like I'm going to have to prepare a Fedex package of rain for Brucer too .... ! 47.70 for unlimited everything? Man, that's a pretty good deal. Hope you get some time to work on the project. I love watching CNC plasmas at work! :D

Xalky
07-07-2012, 10:00 AM
Bruce: How many threads per inch on the actuator? You should be very happy with it...I know it saved me a weeks worth of work.

My commitment is over on Sprint, so I'm shopping around. I have a Samsung epic 4g...It would be nice to convert it over to SmartTalk if Smarttalk is CDMA, it should be doable.

I take all my pictures with my smart phone. Which network does Smarttalk use CDMA or GSM? 4G?

brucer
07-08-2012, 03:34 AM
Bruce: How many threads per inch on the actuator? You should be very happy with it...I know it saved me a weeks worth of work.

My commitment is over on Sprint, so I'm shopping around. I have a Samsung epic 4g...It would be nice to convert it over to SmartTalk if Smarttalk is CDMA, it should be doable.

I take all my pictures with my smart phone. Which network does Smarttalk use CDMA or GSM? 4G?


xalky

i'll tell you everything i've learned about the walmart Straight talk.. I live out in the county and ATT and verizon is the primary service providers out in the county due to towers.. When I was with ATT i owned a blackberry so, ATT was hitting me with a $100 or more a month phone bill which was ridiculous.. I waited for my contract to come up and it did in may 2011.. I shopped around for several months, looked at verizon,sprint,att all of them were just too damn expensive for a monthly cell phone service.. Thats when I started looking at the no contract stuff, net10,boost,straight talk,virgin and several others... Well I go to walmart at least once every 2 weeks, so it was pretty much a shoe in choice for me as if I was needing service I could pick up a 30day service card for $45 plus tax which comes up to 47.70 a month at any walmart in the country, plus you can buy 3, 6, and 12month service cards, the longer service card you get the cheaper the service is, you can get a one year service plan for $500.. The catch when i started with straight talk was you had to buy your phone with these no contract plans as they didnt offer sim chips, but now you can buy sim cards for about any phone.. plus now they are offering android smart phones and you can spend as much as you want on a phone.. I was using a cheap samsung t528g (gsm because of my location i have to use gsm//gsm=att towers in my county) so recently walmart started selling the ZTE Merit 990g (990g=gsm phone) for $129 i've only had it since thursday but this phone is so much better than what I had its rediculous... For $130 for a android phone the zte merit is a steal... Walmart has several cdma phones available, The ZTE merit 990 is also available in cdma version..


You can also set the straight talk plan automatically take payments out of your bank account just like the big services offer.. you can also set up a reserve bank on the straight talk website to where you can log in and manually add service time as you go, I like it very much, I find you can get the service length you want as money allows, I keep one month ahead at all times... I'm going to try to save my money up and at the end of december buy a $500/one year service..


Xalky ------> You can now buy a Straight talk sim card for your phone for like $15 or $20 and it will enable your phone to work on the straight talk service. You have to buy the sim card plus a $45/$125/$250/or $500 service card.. They just started offering the sim chips like last month maybe 2 months ago i think. a friend told me about that or I would have probably just used my old blackberry, but I'm glad I got the android phone.. if your contract is up I can recommend going to straight talk, my service has been the same or better with straight talk as it was with ATT just $50 a month cheaper(might be due to the phone i was using), I was skeptical at first but now I kick myself for not doing it sooner as I could have saved a bunch more if I would have done it as soon as my ATT contract was up.. I get very excellent call quality with this ZTE android phone, much better than the cheap samsung t528g i had, and i dont know if its the phone or service but my call quality is better with this android than it was with my blackberry on ATT service, think its just the new android phone is that much better....

This is where i found it can make a difference, and you will need to check on this... If you and your wife are on separate contracts, basically your on your own plan, you will save a lot of money, anywhere from probably $25- $50+ a month depending on what service you have.. If you and your wife are on the same contract I'm not so certain. I know here ATT will let you add a line for like $10 so you'll need to check on the difference with multiple phones with the strait talk service.. I'm on my own plan so I was a no-brainer for me to switch, I save around $50 a month, at one time ATT sent me a bill for $115 and I had to bitch about it until they knocked $10 off it and that $105 was my largest bill, it was then I swore as soon as my contract was up I was gone from ATT.

brucer
07-08-2012, 03:41 AM
went and took a snippet of the sim chip page on straight talks web site for you..

Xalky
07-08-2012, 12:52 PM
Wow. I gotta check into this. My wife is still under contract and so is my son. We had a family everything plan with shared minutes. When my last phone died out of warranty and still under contract, i bought this samsung phone on e-bay because i didn't want to be locked in anymore. The phone is still awesome, so if i can get this up n running on Straight talk, i'm gonna do it. Sprint is really very good up in my area but i think I can do better. Even if its just for a little while. If i do it for 6 months lets say. I can go back to sprint as a new cutomer and get a top end phone for like $150. If i want to upgrade as an existing customer, it'll cost me upwards of $400 for a top end android. OR maybe I'll just do the math and buy an unlocked phone on e-bay for $400 and stay with straight talk if the math makes sense. Right now i'm good with my phone but a year down the road, things could be different.

Thanks for the info, I'm gonna check it out.

Marcel

Charley Davidson
07-08-2012, 02:08 PM
Thanks Bucer, I just went & bought a phone & service

undercut
07-08-2012, 02:16 PM
Thanks Bucer, I just went & bought a phone & service Brucer, you could make a killing in the cell phone sales business ... ;)

brucer
07-08-2012, 03:02 PM
Thanks Bucer, I just went & bought a phone & service

Charley,

I hope you like it as much as I do... which phone did you get?

Xalky
07-08-2012, 03:35 PM
I checked the site. when you check on the cdma button a message pops up that says it's not compatible with straight talk. Thanks anyway. I might be able to get my phone to work on Virgin mobile. I'm gonna weigh my options.

undercut
07-08-2012, 04:37 PM
Hey, wait a second! Looks like I'm not the only one getting the wet noodle lashings! ;) Hey, I'm kidding. It doesn't bother me in the least. Carry on, it's all good when people are helping others.

Charley Davidson
07-08-2012, 05:37 PM
Just got the $39.00 one hoping to find a smart phone cheap and return this one

brucer
07-09-2012, 02:22 PM
ok back on track. woke up at 4am, was in the garage at 4:30am...

made my torch and router mounting plate.. whatever you want to call it.. I got all hole happy again, but I bet I have enough adjustment..

brucer
07-09-2012, 02:26 PM
I also got a good start on this....see if you can guess what it's going to be..

undercut
07-09-2012, 02:35 PM
I also got a good start on this....see if you can guess what it's going to be.. I was going to say an astray until you started to fill that cavity with "stuff"! ;) What's with the blue? Was that required for part of the fabrication?? Good for you to find the time to get some work in. So sorry to hear it was so early in the morning!

Gadget
07-09-2012, 03:33 PM
Looks like a slide for a torch mount to me.

brucer
07-09-2012, 04:08 PM
What's with the blue? Was that required for part of the fabrication?? Good for you to find the time to get some work in. So sorry to hear it was so early in the morning!

The blue is known as Dykem, or Die Makers ink or Layout Ink...
You spray it or brush it on and it dries pretty quick.. it's for visual reference of layout lines and also to see what material your removing from machining.. When your done machining you can wipe it off with various stuff, like acetone, several types of cleaners will take it off, wd40 will also. I use Crown brand and I use the spray type, its quicker.

No biggy with early morning, i woke up, it was decently cool, so I grabbed some coffee and got after it.. felt good to be working on my machine again..

Tomorrow I have my CCP class, I'm pretty excited about that. I'll let you guys know how that goes.

undercut
07-09-2012, 04:23 PM
The blue is known as Dykem, or Die Makers ink or Layout Ink... You spray it or brush it on and it dries pretty quick.. it's for visual reference of layout lines and also to see what material your removing from machining.. When your done machining you can wipe it off with various stuff, like acetone, several types of cleaners will take it off, wd40 will also. I use Crown brand and I use the spray type, its quicker. Neat. Figured it was something like that. Not uniform enough to be a permanent item although I must admit, I like the color.
No biggy with early morning, i woke up, it was decently cool, so I grabbed some coffee and got after it.. felt good to be working on my machine again.. You are a better man than me. I'd cut a limb off if I work with any machinery at that time of the morning ....
Tomorrow I have my CCP class, I'm pretty excited about that. I'll let you guys know how that goes. Sorry, I tried to google to figure it out myself but what is "CCP"?

Xalky
07-09-2012, 05:23 PM
There's nothing like the smell of Dykem in the morning, ay Bruce?:ggoofy

acourtjester
07-09-2012, 08:24 PM
Brucer
You must own a Aluminum mine. That stuff looks great but how much time do you spend with your mill?

Have fun
Tom

brucer
07-10-2012, 06:19 AM
Brucer
You must own a Aluminum mine. That stuff looks great but how much time do you spend with your mill?

Have fun
Tom

actually, a lot of the aluminum you see was donated from that buddy of mine, I've bought about $30 worth of aluminum on my table, all the 3/4" plate I used was free, I had most of the 1/2" and 3/8" plate. yes I wouldnt want to buy all the aluminum that i've used, it would cost a small fortune probably..

I do love using my mill, It doesnt take all that much time to do something like drill and ream the mounting plate, all dimensions are standard 1/2" 3/4"or 1" and in aluminum it goes pretty quick.. I might have 2 1/2 hours machine time on the large mounting plate including squaring it up. thats without readouts, if I had readouts it would be quicker.. I have probably the same amount of time in the smaller floating torch mount.. the drilling goes quick, milling something like the pocket in the torch mount goes a bit slower...

brucer
07-10-2012, 06:26 AM
Sorry, I tried to google to figure it out myself but what is "CCP"?

My fault, should have been ccdw, They also call it a carry conceal permit in Kentucky, guess it depends where your at..

brucer
07-10-2012, 06:34 AM
There's nothing like the smell of Dykem in the morning, ay Bruce?:ggoofy

yea I just love the smell of that stuff....
The crown toolmakers ink isnt as bad as the real "dykem", the real dykem will get you high as a kite.. You might try the Crown brand, it's different than the original stuff, it doesnt smell as strong, but I like the way it dries much better.. its not water soluble either, dont care much for the water soluble stuff.

undercut
07-10-2012, 10:52 AM
actually, a lot of the aluminum you see was donated from that buddy of mine, I've bought about $30 worth of aluminum on my table, all the 3/4" plate I used was free, I had most of the 1/2" and 3/8" plate. yes I wouldnt want to buy all the aluminum that i've used, it would cost a small fortune probably.. Nice donation!
My fault, should have been ccdw, They also call it a carry conceal permit in Kentucky, guess it depends where your at.. Carry conceal .... No, no. My mistake .... SIR. We're all friends here. We are your friends, right? No grudges? ;)

brucer
07-10-2012, 04:09 PM
Carry conceal .... No, no. My mistake .... SIR. We're all friends here. We are your friends, right? No grudges? ;)

no grudges here..
I just want a ccdw/ccp simply because it's my right as an American to have one, and I want one before the politicians start in on them. It was a pain in the rear to take the class, pretty easy, just a long day watching dvd's about gun safety, some criminal law, your rights as a licensee, then a few minutes on the range.. It was very informative, worth doing it in my book..

undercut
07-10-2012, 05:36 PM
no grudges here.. I just want a ccdw/ccp simply because it's my right as an American to have one, and I want one before the politicians start in on them. It was a pain in the rear to take the class, pretty easy, just a long day watching dvd's about gun safety, some criminal law, your rights as a licensee, then a few minutes on the range.. It was very informative, worth doing it in my book.. Well, you never know what the politicians are going to do next. Actually, I don't even think they know what they are going to do next! Sounds like a lot of good information. You never know when it might come in useful.

Xalky
07-10-2012, 09:07 PM
Well, you never know what the politicians are going to do next. I don't want to get too much into politics here, because it can be very polarizing. But there are those in politics that would like to tell us what to eat, where to work, and how much money we're entitled to make. If they could figure out how to tax the air we breathe, they would tax it. I'm 47, I've seen our rights and our freedoms slipping right through our fingers. This aint your daddys USA, thats for damn sure.

undercut
07-10-2012, 10:32 PM
Polarizing is right. Not the right arena to get into this. We've got problems. No easy way to fix them.

Charley Davidson
07-11-2012, 05:03 PM
Now back to your regularly scheduled programming

acourtjester
07-11-2012, 09:00 PM
Amen I'm with Charley on that topic.

brucer
07-14-2012, 08:51 AM
ok heres a quick update, just about finished up my floating torch mount.. I still need to make the bracket to hold the torch and I'm also planning to make a cover to cover the top half of the floating torch mount..

I got more done than just the floating torch, but i'm saving that for another update ;)

heres pics of the floating torch mount..

Xalky
07-14-2012, 10:59 AM
Where's the switch gonna go? Make sure you position the switch in such a way that if the z overshoots, it doesn't bend/break the switch. Don't ask.... I actually ended up putting a stop on mine so that the total travel of the floating torch is only about .100". The switch needs less than .050' to trip. If mine over shoots it'll hit the stop first before it breaks something. Is that an optical switch I see there on the side?

undercut
07-14-2012, 01:07 PM
Nice machining job! All of this jargon is still gobbledigook to me butI 'm starting catch on (but I don't want to catch the bug ... yet - no money for this)

I like your suggestion, Xalky, and building in some room to overshoot. I won't ask.

brucer
07-14-2012, 03:56 PM
Where's the switch gonna go? Make sure you position the switch in such a way that if the z overshoots, it doesn't bend/break the switch. Don't ask.... I actually ended up putting a stop on mine so that the total travel of the floating torch is only about .100". The switch needs less than .050' to trip. If mine over shoots it'll hit the stop first before it breaks something. Is that an optical switch I see there on the side?


xalky, the switch (inductive proximity switch) is in the pictures, its the thing pointing down that has the wires coming out of it..

brucer
07-15-2012, 04:56 PM
ok heres another update.. been busy the last few days..

motor adapter is machined and installed along with the motor, still need to wire the motor.. I need about 8ft more shielded wiring and a 4 pin molex connector.

floating torch mount is machined far enough along to make it functional and mount it on the machine. I will make and add a nice uhmw cover on the floating torch mount this week..
I also need to take the z axis plate off and cut 2 inches off the top of it.. I'm also going to offset its mounting holes up on the z axis plate about another inch but I can do that later on.

I also still need limit switches, mount them and wire them up... think i'm just going to get some dust proof/water proof momentary normally closed switches for the x and y axis and us the inductive proximity switches for the z axis because they are normally open..

also need several o-rings for my 40i torch..


I think I should have my machine going by the end of the week, fingers crossed....

undercut
07-15-2012, 05:11 PM
Wow. Really coming along. The sum of the parts is even more impressive than the individual pieces you've been showing us. Interesting way you have the torch mounted. Hope you are able to get it fired up this week too! :D

brucer
07-15-2012, 08:01 PM
well got tired of sitting around this afternoon, so i went and took the z axis plate off and trimmed the 1 1/2" off the top so I get all of my available travel.. Lne less thing I'll have to do through the week..

first two pictures are of the z axis plate before I cut the 1 1/2" off the top.. the other two pictures are with it cut at the bottom and top of the actuator..

acourtjester
07-15-2012, 08:33 PM
Very nice work but you been doing that all along. Do you have a rubber specialty shop in town you may be able to find you "O" ring there and start burning metal.
Here is a picture of the wire boom I attached to my table for both plasma and router cable, the router cable is shown with the SSR box for router power.
It just slips into the mount and pivots along with the cable movements. It has 2 plastic washers so it will rotate easily, the white between the red boom and black mount.

brucer
07-18-2012, 04:21 PM
ordered 50 silicon o-rings and some fancy rubber bump stops from mcmaster carr today.

also got the issue with the plasma cutter igniting on m3 and off on m5 corrected, Tim Robel with Longevity mentioned flipping the switch on the front panel back to manual instead of cnc, flipped switch on the front to manual and it worked like it should, go figure, seems like I tried that before and it didnt work, oh well Its working now :toot

brucer
07-26-2012, 07:27 AM
just got internet back up today.. definitely a culture shock not having internet, I had it on my phone but not the same..


I ordered 50 silicone o-rings for my 40i so I shouldnt need any of those for a while.. I also ordered 50 rubber bump stops (pics below)

Its also been scorching hot here this week, this is stupid, we had a 120 degree heat index here yesterday, that is the hottest i've seen it in my 43yrs.. I havent messed with my machine the past week, entirely too hot without A/C....

BAD NEWS:
I screwed up my table.. fried the tb6560 driver board... didnt know the chinese could pack that much smoke in such a little chip :)
now I know why people dont like them, if just one driver chip on board messes up it takes out the whole board, dead in the water...


GOOD NEWS: ordered 4 gecko drives and a powered breakout board.. I'm pretty excited about getting the gecko drives, they should be here today.. I got them from hubbard as he recommended them, they arent the top of the line gecko drives, they are the economy gecko G250 drives, same drives used in the g540. they have 10x microstepping, and they morph to full step on rapids. I can also use up to 50volts power supply, i have a 36volt power supply so i might go ahead and install it when I put the gecko drives in..

brucer
07-26-2012, 07:33 AM
I ordered my gecko drives from hubbard, he has a nice site up and running now Get Hubbed, The Art of CNC (http://hubbardcnc.com/)

acourtjester
07-26-2012, 08:27 AM
HI brucer
Sorry to hear you had a problem, do you know why the smoke came out???
Yes Hubbard is a great place to buy from, I found out he had a circuit board that I can add to my system to isolate the CPU printer port and the signal for CNC. So I ordered one and will install it when I get it. It just goes between the BOB and printer port using another cable (unplug from BOB attach new cable and plug into board and old BOB cable to the board).
Where did you get the rubber bumpers from???? I need some too.
The heat has been a bugger for most these days I see today some cities are showing 108 air temp. That’s just way to much, we have been very lucky here near the Gulf with mid 90’s. I go out to the shop only for short times and back into the house to hide from the heat and humidity.
Keep after it just remember how good you will feel when you are finished and have your own CNC table to use when you want.

Have fun
Tom

brucer
07-26-2012, 10:06 AM
HI brucer
do you know why the smoke came out??? yep I got a wire on the z axis motor flipped around, it was completely my fault..



Yes Hubbard is a great place to buy from, I found out he had a circuit board that I can add to my system to isolate the CPU printer port and the signal for CNC. So I ordered one and will install it when I get it. It just goes between the BOB and printer port using another cable (unplug from BOB attach new cable and plug into board and old BOB cable to the board). tom are your drivers optically isolated?, the geckog250's i'm getting are optically isolated individually so it wont back feed past eash individual driver... I know the bob i'm getting is separately powered also..



Where did you get the rubber bumpers from???? I need some too. mcmaster carr

undercut
07-26-2012, 11:15 AM
just got internet back up today.. definitely a culture shock not having internet, I had it on my phone but not the same..


I ordered 50 silicone o-rings for my 40i so I shouldnt need any of those for a while.. I also ordered 50 rubber bump stops (pics below)

Hey, Brucer, where did you order the bump stops? I've got a number of things that could use bump stop like rubber bits but never had the time to look up suppliers, get prices, yadda, yadda, yadda. Never enough time but these needs don't seem to go away!


Its also been scorching hot here this week, this is stupid, we had a 120 degree heat index here yesterday, that is the hottest i've seen it in my 43yrs.. I havent messed with my machine the past week, entirely too hot without A/C....

BAD NEWS:
I screwed up my table.. fried the tb6560 driver board... didnt know the chinese could pack that much smoke in such a little chip :)
now I know why people dont like them, if just one driver chip on board messes up it takes out the whole board, dead in the water...


GOOD NEWS: ordered 4 gecko drives and a powered breakout board.. I'm pretty excited about getting the gecko drives, they should be here today.. I got them from hubbard as he recommended them, they arent the top of the line gecko drives, they are the economy gecko G250 drives, same drives used in the g540. they have 10x microstepping, and they morph to full step on rapids. I can also use up to 50volts power supply, i have a 36volt power supply so i might go ahead and install it when I put the gecko drives in..

Sorry to hear about the smoke incident. Glad you aren't discouraged and have continued to make progress.

I'm NOT going to complain about getting rain and cloudy days. It prevents me from doing any welding, grinding, basically anything metal but it looks like the heat is doing the same for other people anyway. Stay cool! :D

brucer
07-26-2012, 11:43 AM
Hey, Brucer, where did you order the bump stops? McMaster Carr

brucer
07-26-2012, 11:49 AM
new Gecko G251 drives, break out board (bob) and 5v power supply for the bob arrived today..

Man o Man pictures are deceiving, these things are itty bitty, note the quarter in the picture..


G251 drivers and C12 high speed breakout board.

acourtjester
07-26-2012, 03:58 PM
Brucer
Here are the specs for the driver I used they are for Pulse, direction, and enable signals.
In the industry I came from when you hooked up something wrong it was called (The Ground Hog Effect) if you saw your shadow on the wall it was weeks of troubleshooting ahead.

have fun
Tom

brucer
07-28-2012, 11:45 PM
Pic below of what i've got so far..

I still need to wire some other stuff.. such as the relay to switch the plasma on and off, which I have no clue as to what I need or how to do it :)

This electronics stuff is killing me, its fairly simple but I just dont know what I need to start with.

I looked at the papers Hubbard sent with the break out board and the drivers and it was greek to me.... I called him, talked to him about 5 minutes and he give me a down and dirty wiring diagram for the drivers over the phone, after that, that portion was simple and I understood it to a point... I do much better with a wiring diagram than i do with input and output signals, signal grounds and yada yada yada.. After brent telling me a diagram over the phone and him explaining what wire went where it took me like 30 to 45 minutes to wire all the drivers up,I will backtrack and disconnect all but one of them to start with and connect one at a time to double check my wiring..

next up is wiring the relay to fire the torch, anyone have any clue as to what i need to do, or if i need anything else? I'm thinking I need a safety charge pump board somewhat like this one from cnc4pc
CNC4PC (http://www.cnc4pc.com/Store/osc/product_info.php?cPath=23&products_id=51) Brent was going to start explaining how he would do it and I told him I would do the baby step thing and call him one day next week... I would love to do it myself so I can learn more about this electronic stuff..

I would also like to add a opto isolator before my bob, like tom has done or doing on his machine.... think i could run out of room in my enclosure pretty quick, i might have to tighten things up in there a bit..

acourtjester
07-29-2012, 07:54 AM
HI Brucer
I will see if I can help, First I have not received the opto-isolation board from Hubbard.
Here is a diagram of the torch on/off relay I used output 1 from the BOB to switch the relay and +5 volts from the BOB as power. The relay contacts are wired to the torch on/off switch wires. If you need the info about how Mach 3 turns the torch on let me know.

Have fun
Tom
I will check for other questions a few times today

acourtjester
07-29-2012, 07:56 AM
HI Brucer
I will see if I can help, First I have not received the opto-isolation board from Hubbard.
Here is a diagram of the torch on/off relay I used output 1 from the BOB to switch the relay and +5 volts from the BOB as power. The relay contacts are wired to the torch on/off switch wires. If you need the info about how Mach 3 turns the torch on let me know.

Have fun
Tom

brucer
07-29-2012, 09:46 AM
Tom that will help me out bunch... thank you...

brucer
07-29-2012, 10:32 AM
HI Brucer
I will see if I can help, First I have not received the opto-isolation board from Hubbard.
Here is a diagram of the torch on/off relay I used output 1 from the BOB to switch the relay and +5 volts from the BOB as power. The relay contacts are wired to the torch on/off switch wires. If you need the info about how Mach 3 turns the torch on let me know.

Have fun
Tom


Tom, what relay are you using?

acourtjester
07-29-2012, 11:11 AM
I bought one from radioshack I think this is the one.
5VDC/1A SPDT Micro Relay : Micro Relays | RadioShack.com (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062480)
call to find one locally

2 contacts for power(+5 volts and pin 14 output#1 on BOB) and 2 for switch out contacts to the torch.

brucer
07-29-2012, 11:19 AM
HI Brucer
First I have not received the opto-isolation board from Hubbard.



Tom,

Would a db25 port surge protector work? i know its not optic isolated but a would think just your typical parallel port surge protector would work, plus they are usually self resetting and dont need a power supply..
something like this AD-LGC-25MF - DB25 Male to DB25 Female Low Profile Port Protector (http://www.pacificcable.com/Picture_Page.asp?DataName=AD-LGC-25MF)
or this Patton Electronics 503P 503PC Parallel Port Surge Protector (http://www.data-connect.com/Patton_503P.htm)

acourtjester
07-29-2012, 01:38 PM
HI
I have not had any experience with those type surge protectors but the price seen great just to try one.

brucer
07-30-2012, 10:33 PM
Back in the Saddle again..

Ok, It was nice here today, well, in the 90's atleast, felt better than 120 heat index thats for sure..

I got drives installed and wired in, got all the outputs lined out in Mach3... Its nice not having to mess with jumpers on the drivers...

I still need to tune my motors, I just stuck some numbers in there for my steps per inch just to get it moving under its own power, I can tell you, these budget gecko drives are much better than that cheap chinese board I had. I'm kind of glad i burnt that thing up now.. The gecko drives are very quiet, you dont hear them at all, the motors run so much smoother its rediculous..

I called Brent (Hubbard CNC) to help line out a problem I was having with my emergency stop (which Isnt hooked up yet), it was disabling the drives because I didnt have the switch wired into the system yet, Brent told me how to disable the e-stop in Mach for the time being.. I got that lined out, slaved the A axis, then reversed it and I was up and running within minutes.. :elect

I also wired in a nice solid state relay my buddy Kayle brought over, worked correct on the first try.. I really enjoy wiring when it all goes as planned, hate it when you see smoke and I cant stand the smell of burnt electronics, It's almost as bad as burnt rearend oil. :eek

Too my surprise, Brent Hubbard called me back about an hour later to check on my progress.. I can tell you that right there sold me on Hubbard CNC, I have never in my life had a place call me to check on my progress. That is product support and that sold me on Hubbard CNC for my cnc supplies from here on out..

I need to figure up my steps per inch, and then I'll start fine tuning it, I can already tell its going to be faster with these geckos, and thats running with a 24volt power supply, Brent told me I would see even better results using a 36volt power supply...

Heres some pictures of the G251 drives mounted in the cabinet wired up and running with no smoke :bounce

brucer
07-30-2012, 10:37 PM
I do think I'll order a parallel port protector tonight though..

undercut
07-30-2012, 10:53 PM
.... Too my surprise, Brent Hubbard called me back about an hour later to check on my progress.. I can tell you that right there sold me on Hubbard CNC, I have never in my life had a place call me to check on my progress. That is product support and that sold me on Hubbard CNC for my cnc supplies from here on out..

Wow. That IS impressive. Nice to know he doesn't just care about getting your money.

.... no smoke :bounce

I used to work at a place where the very power-on of a new machine was called the smoke test .... Never did like that term! :D

brucer
08-03-2012, 01:36 PM
Got on ebay a couple days ago and ordered an db25 25pin parallel port isolated loop surge protector, It's self resetting also, It cost like $12 to my door..

I guess its better to be safe than sorry..

I hope you guys dont mind me posting little tidbits of stuff like this, but it might make other builders aware of a part they might want to add to their system...


I havent had much time this week to work on the table, been hot and my buddy up the road turned his a/c on in his shop and they have been thrashing on my trans am all week, so i've been watching them and making sure their work is up to my standards.

I still need to mount the limit switches and build the water table, I had a real nice idea for my water table, going to be pretty neat, yet its a pretty simple addidtion.. I havent seen anyone do this yet so it might give some other folks a good idea for their tables..

undercut
08-03-2012, 01:44 PM
Got on ebay a couple days ago and ordered an db25 25pin parallel port isolated loop surge protector, It's self resetting also, It cost like $12 to my door..

I guess its better to be safe than sorry..

I hope you guys dont mind me posting little tidbits of stuff like this, but it might make other builders aware of a part they might want to add to their system...


I havent had much time this week to work on the table, been hot and my buddy up the road turned his a/c on in his shop and they have been thrashing on my trans am all week, so i've been watching them and making sure their work is up to my standards.

I still need to mount the limit switches and build the water table, I had a real nice idea for my water table, going to be pretty neat, yet its a pretty simple addidtion.. I havent seen anyone do this yet so it might give some other folks a good idea for their tables..

If you can get stuff like this and you think you might need it, might be better getting it sooner than later. Parallel ports are becoming an extinct breed. $12 delivered is cheap insurance.

acourtjester
08-03-2012, 02:17 PM
Posting is sharing, that's a good thing, never know whose hiding in the bushes and is helped when you post.:clap
Seeing what somebody did could point a better way for someone that needs direction.
Many small things can be very important just post and let the reader decide.

What’s the sign in the shop say, labor $40 per hour, you watch $50 per hour, you help $75 per hour.

brucer
08-21-2012, 12:20 AM
quick update...

floating torch using the proximity sensor is connected and working great, my sensor offset is .045. would any of you see that .045 being a problem? i didnt know if there was some standard for the offset or not.. I could easily get it closer if i need it closer..

The table is pretty much done, I'm having a sheetmetal shop quote bending me a water pan, they're suppose to call tomorrow in the am to give me a price. we'll see, but i bet it will too much for my liking.. I'll probably have to go buy a piece of metal then drive to my buddies place thats 45minutes away and use his foot shear and finger brake.


I still need to make a cover for the proximity switch and finish the water table, but that stuffs the easy part..

I also installed sheetcam on my machine computer, I'm going to play with it some and see how I like it.. I also downloaded a mastercam post for mach3, think i'll have to edit the post to get the code correct for the floating head torch, havent got a chance to install it yet.... I might run it in a macro and just run the macro for the floating torch off the m3 command, but i would rather run straight code if i can, just simplifies things..

I havent done any cutting yet, but every time I look at my table I am completely satisfied with its design and the way it looks and the way it acts under power.. the only real concern i have is actually completing the circuit with the plasma cutter and making a cut in metal and the possible noise/interference.. i have had the torch in the floating torch head and ran it around in mdi with the plasma cutter on and there was no interference or noise of any kind..

brucer
08-21-2012, 12:25 AM
Well poop, thats wrong picture, the floating torch isnt hooked up in that picture. I'll get a more current picture tomorrow

Gadget
08-21-2012, 06:27 AM
It's really starting to take shape Brucer. I'm going to have to start thinking about a second generation unit.

acourtjester
08-21-2012, 08:54 AM
Brucer
I know the problems in the past make you a little cautious, but if you have done the MDI with plasma on/off that is as good as a real run test. Only difference is many more on/off cycles. Finger bone some short tests on scrape metal to test movement, on/off, and floating head action and that should answer all the questions. I thought the proximity switches were sealed why cover them if their sealed?
I remember after your seeing my video with the water table you suggested I had the water to close to the metal. I change to about 1” below and it still bubbled up on the metal I don’t think you can get away from that due to the jet of gas from the torch.
Lets see some pictures from Sparkcity.
Have fun
Tom

undercut
08-21-2012, 10:59 AM
The table and associated equipment look great! Tom's suggestions certainly sound reasonable and look like the best way to gain some confidence that everything is working as you expect ...

brucer
08-22-2012, 01:46 PM
Brucer
I know the problems in the past make you a little cautious, but if you have done the MDI with plasma on/off that is as good as a real run test. Only difference is many more on/off cycles. Finger bone some short tests on scrape metal to test movement, on/off, and floating head action and that should answer all the questions. I thought the proximity switches were sealed why cover them if their sealed?
I remember after your seeing my video with the water table you suggested I had the water to close to the metal. I change to about 1” below and it still bubbled up on the metal I don’t think you can get away from that due to the jet of gas from the torch.
Lets see some pictures from Sparkcity.
Have fun
Tom

tom,

i've fired the torch in mdi and ran single moves with the torch on and got no interference whatsoever, the plasma cutter was grounded to one of the aluminum extrusions on the center of the table.. everything worked fine...

I've also wrote a g28.1 program to test the floating torch and its working as should.. I have the proximity sensor offset in in the home offset, and it is working correctly.. I'm pretty confident its ready to cut.. havent had time to fool with it, been messing with that car to get the engine out and something put back together to put in it..

I was waiting on a quote from the sheetmetal shop for the pan, and just like most other shops in town they failed to call yesterday, which he said he would call in the am yesterday, they attempted to call today at 1pm, I didnt even answer the phone, screw'em, cant stand it when a place tells you they will call you first thing in the morning then you hear something a day and a half later.. Its not that big of a deal, I'll just make the table myself, be cheaper to do it myself anyways..


The proximity switch is sealed, but i also hear that the plasma dust build up can effect them, so I'm just going to make a small cover for the plunger,spring, and sensor..


i'll probably clamp a piece of metal down this later this week and get some test cutting going..

acourtjester
08-22-2012, 03:50 PM
Great news you will be cooking real soon, the water table cuts down on the dust greatly. You will need to put some rust proof stuff in the water and clean it out to keep the funky stuff from building up to much.
Always seems one project gets in the way of another project. I'm building a computer desk for a buddy now so I have not been cutting anything for a while.

have fun
Tom

brucer
08-22-2012, 04:03 PM
Great news you will be cooking real soon, the water table cuts down on the dust greatly. You will need to put some rust proof stuff in the water and clean it out to keep the funky stuff from building up to much.
Always seems one project gets in the way of another project. I'm building a computer desk for a buddy now so I have not been cutting anything for a while.

have fun
Tom

Thats whats happening with me Tom.. my trans am is at my buddies shop, with the engine pulled out of it, it had a rod knocking (I knew it did), I went to missouri to pick up the 6 liter, so now I have two engines tore down in his shop and i'm trying to decide which i want to rebuild to put back in the car.. I also have a powdercoat oven all framed up and waiting for sheetmetal skin under my carport..

the ls1 needs a rod and crank kit, I will rering the 6.0 liter before i just put it in the car.. The ls1 is all aluminum, the 6.0 is a cast iron block which people love for boost and nitrous, and I love the torque the 6.0 puts out..
I'm trying to figure out the cheapest route and get an engine in it and running and sell the Trans Am and put some of that cash into my 27ford, that would be more than enough cash to pay for the rest of the 27ford build and a couple other toys/tools I'm wanting... I think I'll go with the rering on the 6.0 and pull the cam and timing set out of the ls1 and use it in the 6.0 and save whats left of the ls1 to build later on or just sell it..

dang highjacked my own thread wtf :)

undercut
08-22-2012, 06:47 PM
Thats whats happening with me Tom.. my trans am is at my buddies shop, with the engine pulled out of it, it had a rod knocking (I knew it did), I went to missouri to pick up the 6 liter, so now I have two engines tore down in his shop and i'm trying to decide which i want to rebuild to put back in the car.. I also have a powdercoat oven all framed up and waiting for sheetmetal skin under my carport..

the ls1 needs a rod and crank kit, I will rering the 6.0 liter before i just put it in the car.. The ls1 is all aluminum, the 6.0 is a cast iron block which people love for boost and nitrous, and I love the torque the 6.0 puts out..
I'm trying to figure out the cheapest route and get an engine in it and running and sell the Trans Am and put some of that cash into my 27ford, that would be more than enough cash to pay for the rest of the 27ford build and a couple other toys/tools I'm wanting... I think I'll go with the rering on the 6.0 and pull the cam and timing set out of the ls1 and use it in the 6.0 and save whats left of the ls1 to build later on or just sell it..

dang highjacked my own thread wtf :)

All of your projects sound pretty fun. Not sure how you decide what to do each morning! ;) So you've decided on selling the Trans Am?

brucer
08-22-2012, 10:04 PM
All of your projects sound pretty fun. Not sure how you decide what to do each morning! ;) So you've decided on selling the Trans Am?

think i will.. have to wait till after i get it running, will probably drive it a bit and then sell it.. be hard to sell it though, I've always wanted that body style with t-tops, like them better than vettes..

undercut
08-23-2012, 12:00 AM
think i will.. have to wait till after i get it running, will probably drive it a bit and then sell it.. be hard to sell it though, I've always wanted that body style with t-tops, like them better than vettes..

You've got time to decide. Drive it for a bit and I'm sure the decision will come to you in due time. Cheers.

brucer
08-23-2012, 04:23 AM
ok back on track... here are a few of the small changes I've made from what might have been seen in earlier posts..

The spring loaded adjusters on the stepper motors, I changed them and moved them closer to the inside mounts so they werent trying to pull the drive gear away from the rack, keeps the gear reduction much more square to the rack gears, and parallel to the gantry side plates... I dont like the way the springs wrap around the end of the mount, dont think it will hurt anything, but a threaded eye would look and work better and the springs probably dont like being bent around like in the pictures..

also in this group of pictures are the added electronics, a capacitor to tame the limit switches, also added a din mounted mini relay in the cabinet. its mounted on the side of the cabinet out of sight.. cabinet is a little more messier than I like. I think I might add a 12v/5v power supply later on and get rid of the outlet and two walwart transformers...

also added a simple protective cover to the floating torch, covers the plunger assembly and proximity sensor, still need to tig weld the corners.. Its made out of aluminum from an old sign and the last sign material I tried to weld simply was trash and I couldnt weld it. not too worried about, its doing its job well enough as is :)

one pic is of the top z+ limit switch, think i'm going to add a switch on the z- end, just to keep it from bottoming out..

acourtjester
08-23-2012, 04:52 AM
Juggling projects make life fun I had to add on to my shop to have storage for future projects.
Just need to remember one foot in front of the other to move forward each day ha ha ha.
An idle mind is the devils work shop, an active mind keeps OLD-Himmers a bay.

Keep on truckin!

undercut
08-23-2012, 10:55 AM
Everything is nice and tidy. Very professional project. I see what you mean about that spring. In keeping with everything else that looks like it was commercially produced, I would agree it would be much nicer to clean that up. Other than that small nit, it looks great! :D

brucer
09-01-2012, 09:21 AM
another small update..

Rail covers, turned out as planned.. Think its a nice clean functional addition.

Gadget
09-01-2012, 02:17 PM
I assume you're going to use a water table right? Otherwise the cross pieces in the middle would get pretty chewed up by the plasma.

undercut
09-01-2012, 04:19 PM
Nice rail covers! Are those plastic edge coverings you've got on them?

brucer
09-01-2012, 07:47 PM
I assume you're going to use a water table right? Otherwise the cross pieces in the middle would get pretty chewed up by the plasma.

yes, I'm running a water table...

I had 3 different places quote me a price bending up a 16ga. pan, cheapest was $105, highest was $135.. Told the place that quoted me $105 to do it, that was last friday, havent heard back from them. so now I'm waiting on getting the pan bent, just have to tell one of the other places to do it then wait on them...

I hate it when you go to have something done, then the place quotes you a high price in the first place, then they dont do it when you tell them to do it.. pisses me off, They lost my business, oh well, I wouldnt give them much business anyways.. I could have been done with the table by now, or finishing the water table this weekend, now i'm in waiting mode again.. guess I can find something else to do on it..

brucer
09-01-2012, 07:50 PM
Nice rail covers! Are those plastic edge coverings you've got on them?

yea sort of...those are a saw blade protectors, they come on new saw blades so you dont dull the blades or cut your hands up, I reporpused them and they were dirt cheap, I like free. ;)

undercut
09-01-2012, 09:59 PM
yea sort of...those are a saw blade protectors, they come on new saw blades so you dont dull the blades or cut your hands up, I reporpused them and they were dirt cheap, I like free. ;)

I like free too! LOL They add a nice finishing touch to the rail covers.

Sorry to hear about your pan problems. Sometimes its so tough finding businesses WORTH your business .....

brucer
09-03-2012, 01:54 PM
went out and messed around with the cnc plasma today... I was going to be patient, didnt happen, threw a piece of metal stud on the table.. hand wrote a little program..

I just guessed at the feedrate.. programmed it with 70ipm feed, it could be twice that I would imagine.. The dwell at the beginning isnt acting like I think it should, it could be the consumables i'm using as they are fairly well used...

Its been a long time since I've programmed a dwell that i'm not sure i'm writing it correct... If I'm wanting a 1/2 second dwell I would program it as G04 P500 or G04 P0500 correct?

My post needs a lot of work before its going to work for a plasma cutter, at least the way mine is set up..


heres a shot video or a 2x2 square with 1/4inch radii on the corners..

Video is a little wobbly at the end, hope you can keep your lunch down..

http://www.youtube.com/embed/oRtVtRYnUig

undercut
09-03-2012, 02:24 PM
Nice to see sparks! With the weather starting to get a bit cooler, you should be able to get a little more project time in. There's light at the end of the tunnel!

brucer
09-03-2012, 02:28 PM
here we go, I was trying to embed it before and didnt do it correct, got it this time.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oRtVtRYnUig

Gadget
09-03-2012, 02:47 PM
I was trying to fix the video but you beat me to it. Nice to see it blowing sparks.

acourtjester
09-03-2012, 06:15 PM
Well congrate are in order well done brucer. Did your wife see the silly grin on your face??????
As for the delay I used G4P0.5 You may have left the peroid out when you posted yours. Also a delay at the end too so plasma dies out before you move to another location.

great job
Tom

brucer
09-04-2012, 06:34 AM
Well congrate are in order well done brucer. Did your wife see the silly grin on your face??????
As for the delay I used G4P0.5 You may have left the peroid out when you posted yours. Also a delay at the end too so plasma dies out before you move to another location.

great job
Tom

Tom,

I'll have to try it with a decimal point... on the fanuc controllers I've ran I dont remember using a decimal point with the P value... Maybe this is just a difference between mach3 and fanuc. heck, I've never had the need to use a G28.1 in 25yrs, so what do I know..

I also think mach3 is cluttered up far too much.. Its like they want a lot functions showing for eye candy but they arent needed to operate the machine.. Running a fanuc based controller you basically have an auot/run screen, offsets screen, rapid, and mdi screen of course you have sub-menu screens but you didnt need to go any farther off those main screens to operate the machine..

I guess I need to familiarize myself more with mach3..

fun stuff
Thanks Tom.

Gadget
09-04-2012, 07:01 AM
Bruce, check out LinuxCNC. I use it and it does very well for me for all my CNC functions. Free download too, free is good. It also has a great support forum so you can customize it to fit your needs.

KHK
09-04-2012, 09:27 AM
brucer, It is great to see some cutting!!!!!!

The P stands for pause P0.5 will give you a 1/2 second delay P1 is one second delay and so on..
Mach3 has a separateate program for screens,haven'tent used it, but it supposedsed customize the screens for your use.

brucer
10-07-2012, 11:04 PM
made a small addition to the table over the weekend.. added a shelf for the plasma cutter and some water tanks and harbor freight fountain pump... I think i need a bit large tank, think i need aabout 5 more gallons of capacity so i dont have to feel the tub up so far.. there is a small tank behind the big one, i drain into it and use it for filtering then it dumps over into the large tank where the pump is..

also started on a torch cable holder..

brucer
10-07-2012, 11:28 PM
it now weighs about a ton, and with the added weight I was able to turn the rapids up ;) X is at 800ipm and Y is at 700ipm, acceleration is at 50.. left z at 300ipm.

the 40i runs good underneath the table also, I was worried about noise, no problems at all.. cut a couple test pieces with everything underneath.

in one of the pictures you can see a 5/16 thick plate laid up against my powder coat oven. I cut four 6" shackles out that plate for a friend a couple days ago, was also piercing the 5/16 plate at .150 in the z with .5 delay and a 5ipm plunge to Z.060.. The 40i did pretty good at 25ipm on the perimeter and I ran 15ipm on the inside holes.. pretty sure the 40i could pierce 3/8 fairly easy.. I had the Z set too high, had to work out the Z switch offset, finally got it figured out that the home switch offset in mach3 doesnt work the way you think it would, you have to offset the floating switch in sheetcams post..

I still need a solenoid also.. also need a couple 90degree fittings to run the drain and pump lines

completely happy with everything so far, except i need a bit bigger coolant tank

undercut
10-08-2012, 12:18 AM
Nice setup. I don't recall ever noticing your plasma cutter was going to be mounted underneath. Nice and tidy. You want more tanks for better passive cooling?

brucer
10-08-2012, 01:21 AM
Nice setup. I don't recall ever noticing your plasma cutter was going to be mounted underneath. Nice and tidy. You want more tanks for better passive cooling?


added the shelves this weekend, one for the plasma cutter and there is a small parts container behind it... the fluid tanks are just holding tanks for the fluid in the water table, i dont want the fluid sitting exposed in the water table when not in use..

undercut
10-08-2012, 01:24 AM
added the shelves this weekend, one for the plasma cutter and there is a small parts container behind it... the fluid tanks are just holding tanks for the fluid in the water table, i dont want the fluid sitting exposed in the water table when not in use..

OK, that explains why I didn't see it before. Good idea about storing the fluid. Cheers!

brucer
10-08-2012, 01:27 AM
forgot to add, I was at a boat shop getting the bulkhead fittings and low and behold I talked to a woman there about fresh water supplies and she knew ended up knowing her stuff as her and her husband owned a yacht.. She went and got me a bottle of the stuff pictured below.. its an algacide, 1oz treats 20gallons, bottle treats 160 gallons.. cost $13 and some change.

Gadget
10-08-2012, 06:45 AM
Nice and neat Bruce. I'm thinking of putting a water table under the G2 CNC I'm building. I might have to borrow some of your ideas.

acourtjester
10-08-2012, 08:18 AM
Happy you are getting the bugs worked out. On another site I found a mixture for the water in the water table that helps to stop rusting of the metal particles. It uses Sodium Nitrite as an effective corrosion inhibitor.
Plasma quench mix

Here's the recipe for home-made Plasma Quench
1/4 pound of sodium nitrite powder ($15/pound)
1 teaspoon of Physan 20 ($8/8oz bottle)
1 oz Ultramarine blue food-grade dye ($5/oz.)
Mix well, treats 75 gallons of water.
All prices include tax and/or shipping.


I ran my Z home and floating switch in parallel in a NO configuration so either will trigger Mach 3. I have a pigtail that I can plug the floating switch into when I want to use it.

JolietJames
10-08-2012, 01:06 PM
Very nice build and pics Brucer. Is the 90 degree torch mount an off the shelf item? Is the trigger zip tied down or how does it work? I'm getting a table in the spring and was hoping to use my current plasma but was concerned I wouldn't be able to get a straight torch for it. Since yours holds the 90, I should be able to use mine.
Thanks, -James

brucer
10-08-2012, 05:35 PM
Is the 90 degree torch mount an off the shelf item? Is the trigger zip tied down or how does it work? I'm getting a table in the spring and was hoping to use my current plasma but was concerned I wouldn't be able to get a straight torch for it. Since yours holds the 90, I should be able to use mine.
Thanks, -James

It's not an off the shelf torch mount, I made it... you can probably use your torch, you'll more than likely have to use the 2 trigger wires that connect on the front of your machine.. I use the cnc plug on the back of my machine, but all it does is splice into the trigger wires internally in the machine. the trigger on my torch is actually disconnected..

not familiar with your plasma, but if it has a 2 wire switch on it, you would unplug the switch from the front of your machine and either get a new plug or cut the wires on the existing plug and wire your relay using those 2 trigger wires..

post a picture of the front of your plasma and get a picture of your torch and the connections on the front of the plasma cutter..