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Water cooled Torch questions

03-26-2011, 03:16 PM
There are two hoses for the water cooled torch. One goes into the bundle, the other goes to the Machine connection end. The one going straight into the hose bundle has a "W" on it. Is this the feed side for the water, or the return?


03-26-2011, 04:41 PM
I would think the hose on the Dinse connector would be the pressure side and the hose marked W would be the return. It would make sense the water would cool the cable on the way to the torch, then help cool the torch and dump rather than vice versa and carry the heat from the torch head to the cable but either way as long as a flow is present it should be better than no coolant.

03-26-2011, 06:16 PM
Does the cooling system allow flow when there is no power to the torch? We tested our pump system a couple minutes ago. Water flows to the torch, but we don't get anything back on the return.


Ooopps. Found it. Our pump can't push very much head pressure. We'll find something a bit more substantial!

03-26-2011, 08:18 PM
Yes, you should get a return either way, their should be a fusable block, if you don't have one, buy one, they are not that expensive probably less than fifty bucks, they go on the coolant return line from your torch at the welder and when the water system fails because of plugged, dirty water or forget to turn cooler on(what???lol) or something like that the fuse breaks, it is a thin flat peice of bimetal, good system saver.But doesn't affect your coolant flow just stops your current to machine.
Some mfg's have a solid state plug in to the peripheral port for migs that have a fuse block that is solid state.Here is a link that may be of help,

03-27-2011, 01:06 AM
Thanks for the info!

From what I'm finding, the cooling system needs to have about 40# of pressure to keep the coolant from cavitating under some conditions. I have three pumps to play with, but the higher pressure ones flow a lot of water.
Since I don't plan to run the machine very hard, can I run in the 20# range, or should I use the larger pumps and a bypass?
Some of the information out there suggests RV anti-freeze to halt growth. Are there other coolants I should use or considerations I haven't touched on?


03-27-2011, 11:47 AM
Use caution when choosing the anti-freeze. Some automotive anti-freezes have stop leak built into them this will eventually plug the torch. Check with you local WS for the proper juice to use in them.

03-27-2011, 11:51 AM
I'm watching from the shadows, ceej!
Definitely can't afford a storebought cooler, and I just don't like the feel of the single hose air-cooled torches.
Even my 2 hose W-26 feels btr than the WC/WT 17 of my kid's.
...I'm probably going to end up with a w-20 series...

03-27-2011, 10:58 PM
I've got a pump that works now. I'm going to use a five gallon bucket with the lid on it with an appropriate juice in it. The amount of welding I do, this will work fine.
I'll get some of the appropriate antifreeze when I'm in town tomorrow. I'll need to pick up some aluminum filler rod anyway. Gotta test the AC functions! :-D


03-28-2011, 12:45 AM
ceej, first thing that comes to mind is that a 5gal bucketful is just not enough... but keep us posted!
Good luck

03-28-2011, 01:09 AM
I have a good brass pump I am going to hook to a 1/4hp motor(old appliance motor) with a set of spiders, wasn't used much can't remember where I picked it up pump, and a freon storage tank for water storage and the cooler will either be an old auto cooler or the back condenser from a refrigatator.Will post more as I get it together.I like to make things so they look good finished not like they were made half hazardly, but cannot se getting that much pressure with such a small motor.let us know how it works for you.

03-28-2011, 03:27 AM
5 gallons not enough?Sure it is.Making mine with a 2 gallon sump.Gotta question your cooling set up?Take into account their is coolant in the lines and condenser.Their are alot of people that have less than 5 gallon sump just look at the coolers available from retailers.

03-28-2011, 08:34 AM
Sry tikqk... I thought ceej had said he was intending to operate ONLY from that 5 gal bucket reservoir and he made no mention of an included radiator assembly, possibly with fan, such as you described.

Obviously you are more experienced than I.


03-31-2011, 09:03 PM
Look for my thread on "City Pressure Torch cooler"

ASE MasterTech
06-02-2011, 04:12 PM
It's all about conducting heat.
If the flow/pressure is too great, you will not be utilizing the the coolant to it's best advantage, as the 'coolant' will not be able to 'absorb' the heat quickly enough as it passes the point of conductivity (torch/hose).
Water (pure) is one of the best conductors of heat (& the best soluble) & is usually the standard by which all things liquid are measured. Most 'coolants' are a combination of some type of 'freeze-resistant' component & water. One is added at the 'expense' of the other (thermodynamically speaking).

06-03-2011, 01:28 AM
You'd be surprise how small some coolers can be made,one of the best ways is to take one of the ss trays that are used for keeping food warm in buffet tables filled with water, their are several trays a person could use as far as size goes, and a small threaded 115v transfer pump.Get a cooler fin from the back of a refrigerator. Now as far as having a fan with the setup I don't think it needs it. A person could make their coolers sit under the welder bolted to the stand, the Longevity flows so much air that it could flow air right through the fins if they came up behind the welder. Also I thin Stan has a few coolers for sale but for me it is always about the build.As for quantity considering what is in the lines, it doesn't take much.

06-14-2011, 04:15 PM
To answer the OPs question the water line from the power cable goes to the inlet on the cooler and the other water line is your supply the power cable is always the return line no mater what water cooling system you are using

06-20-2011, 09:21 AM
a good resevoir would be the smaller 2 gallon cat litter bucket...
i'm planning on building one myself, i'm going to use an old aluminum console for a boat and just just cut what i need.. plan on making it look like on of those fuel cells for a race car... i'm going to use a little giant submersible pump.... make sure you get enough pump, and the pump has enough head for the job...
the store bought coolers run about 55psi and pump around a quart a minute through the small hose... i think the pump that i was looking at was like 200gph with a 10ft head..

06-20-2011, 05:36 PM
the pump on my store bought water cooler is 1.5gpm at 50 psi procon with a 3 gallon res with heat exchanger
I dont know what your 10ft head =s to in psi but you need volume and pressure most submersible pumps are only volume lacking the adequate psi to be used in a closed loop system are also a rubber vane and not brass or stainless steel
i am selling my coolit I for 300 bucks as i dont need it anymore